Mix the wine, olive oil, soy sauce and lemon juice in a broad bowl big enough to fit the fish. Marinate the fish for about a minute, skin side up.
Place the fish skin side down on a very hot grill. Mix the garlic, oregano, parsley, salt and pepper into the butter, and spread it on top of the fish.
Grill the fish without turning until the very top of the fish is distinctly warm to the touch. It's best when some of the butter falls into the flames and smokes up over the fish. The scales will char
