Diary 5|6|2015: Another Puzzle At Mizado.

Written by Tom Fitzmorris May 14, 2015 12:01 in

DiningDiarySquare-150x150 [title type="h5"]Wednesday, May 6, 2015. Another Taste Of Mizado. [/title] [caption id="attachment_47563" align="alignright" width="316"]Two tropical drinks at Mizado. Two tropical drinks at Mizado.[/caption]It appears that Mizado may be a long-term sponsor on the radio show, along with its affiliated local chain, Zea. I remember that when I started doing commercials for Zea, the task was more difficult than for most other restaurants. I ad-lib the spots, with the facts and viewpoints stored in my memory. But Zea--and now Mizado--have menus so far removed from standard fare that I have to eat there over and over again before I get a grip on the essence. Mary Ann likes Mexican food almost as she likes cool new places. She comes along with me for a supper sampling of Mizado. I have noticed that she too hasn't been able to get her head fully around the concept. [caption id="attachment_47562" align="alignnone" width="480"]Queso and chorizo. Queso and chorizo.[/caption] We begin with drinks, of all things. She has a margarita, I have a caipirinha. These are great with the fried chickpeas they bring as an amuse bouche. (It ocurs to me that I ought to find out what the Spanish expression is for that preliminary, French-named mini-course.) The first real eats are what looks like a wagon of queso with chorizo and a cardboard box of tortilla chips. Quick assessment: good enough, not as good as La Carreta's. [caption id="attachment_47561" align="alignnone" width="480"]Duck tamales. Duck tamales.[/caption] Now we have duck tamales, which surely deserve its reputation as one of the signature dishes of Mizado. I have street-style tacos (the kind brought out on that rack made of multiple W's). They are filled with lightly marinated, raw tuna and an assortment of leafy vegetables adding crispness and sharpness. Very refreshing and with a bigger flavor I expect, with an Asian tang. [caption id="attachment_47560" align="alignnone" width="480"]Tacos with marinated tuna and spicy caviar. Tacos with marinated tuna and spicy caviar. [/caption] And there I am. What category does this dish fit? With what can it be compared? How do I tell a radio listener that the enjoyment of this springs both from Mexico and Japan? It makes perfectly good taste sense, but trying to be rational I sound like I'm begging the question. But if it weren't good, none of this cogitation would even begin. So there's my hook, for at least one commercial. A newcomer to Mizado must prepare himself or herself not to attempt comparing this with any other Mexican food. [caption id="attachment_47559" align="alignnone" width="480"]Beef kebabs with chimichurri. Beef kebabs with chimichurri.[/caption] Mary Ann is not crazy about a beef shish kebab (how do you say "shish kebab in Spanish?) with chimichurri sauce. I remember where and when I tasted my first steak with chimichurri, the Latin American answer to pesto (sort of). I also remember who the chef was: Adolfo Garcia, at an Eat Club at Lucky Chang's (!) about fifteen years ago. I developed a liking for the beef-chimichurri idea right there, and have had it ever since. [caption id="attachment_47558" align="alignnone" width="480"]Tres leches with meringue. Tres leches with meringue.[/caption] Mizado's desserts are unique, particularly a tri-mountainous range of meringue above a lost-bread-style tres leches cake. Very sweet and rich--perhaps too much so. Brilliant idea, though. Mary Ann says she likes Johnny Sanchez on Poydras Street better than Mizado. The two places have a lot in common. But Johnny Sanchez has the advantage of being owned by John Besh, who Mary Ann loves. So that explains that. [title type="h5"] Mizado Cocina. Mid-City: 5080 Pontchartrain Blvd. 504-885-5555. [/title]