4 Fleur
Average check per person $55-$65
BreakfastNo Breakfast SundayNo Breakfast MondayNo Breakfast TuesdayNo Breakfast WednesdayNo Breakfast ThursdayNo Breakfast FridayNo Breakfast Saturday
LunchNo Lunch SundayLunch MondayLunch TuesdayLunch WednesdayLunch ThursdayLunch FridayNo Lunch Saturday
DinnerNo Dinner SundayNo Dinner MondayDinner TuesdayDinner WednesdayDinner ThursdayDinner FridayDinner Saturday

Desi Vega’s

CBD: 628 St Charles Ave. 504-523-7600. Map.
Nice Casual.
AE DC DS MC V
Website

WHY IT’S NOTEWORTHY
The widespread rumor (started some ten years ago in this newsletter) that Mr. John’s is the city’s best steakhouse made tables there irritatingly difficult to find. The solution to this problem was to open a second steakhouse with equally alluring food, close enough to get the overflow from the original but far enough away to have its own clientele, too. The concept is simple: the entire steak repertoire is USDA Prime grade (more of a rarity than is widely believed), and the steaks come out with New Orleans-style sizzling butter.

WHAT’S GOOD
The menu at Desi Vega’s is a copy of Mr. John’s in its meaty core, but the rest of it is a bit different. Absent here is the array of Italian dishes at Mr. John’s. Desi Vega’s chef has developed a few appetizers and entrees that are unique to this location. On the other side of the hotel’s mini-lobby is Desi Vega’s bar, with a special menu of its own. It’s a busy place on Saint’s home game days.

Crab cak at Desi Vega's..

BACKSTORY
Desi Vega is a partner in both this and Mr. John’s. Aside from a cool-sounding (and real) name, his qualifications include stints at Commander’s Palace, Emeril’s, and Ruth’s Chris. The restaurant is co-owned with longtime restaurateur Rodney Salvaggio and Paul Varisco (who many remember for his great rock band of the 1960s). The trio took over management of the former Mike’s on the Avenue on the first day of 2013. It’s the dining room of the Lafayette Hotel, where at least ten previous restaurants have come and gone over the decades. The chef’s name tops the owner’s: Muggsy Beals.

Who Dat Shrimp..

DINING ROOM
This has always been a handsome space, with large windows giving onto Lafayette Square and Gallier Hall, tall ceilings and a light-colored, suave look. Thick white tablecloths and wide spaces between tables lend not only comfort but a tolerable sound level. Former Mike’s co-owner Vicky Bayley runs the front door with her usual gleaming style and personality. Saints players can often be seen dining here.

Cowboy ribeye at Desi Vega's..

ESSENTIAL DISHES
Starters
Steak brochette, fresh tomatoes, basil, garlic, parmesan cheese
»Barbecue shrimp
Blackened tuna napoleon
»Fried green tomatoes, jumbo lump crabmeat, remoulade
»Shrimp remoulade or cocktail
Fried marinated calamari, Creole olive salad, marinara sauce
»»Who Dat shrimp (bacon, crabmeat, sweet Thai chili sauce)
Sizzling crab cake
Braised pork belly
»Turtle soup
French onion soup
House salad
Spinach Salad
»Wedge of lettuce
Caesar salad
»Tomato and mozzarella
Boston bibb salad
Entrees
»Filet Mignon
»Bone-in filet mignon
»Rib eye
»»New York strip
»Cowboy steak
»»Porterhouse for two
Twin lobster tails
Surf and turf (filet and lobster tail)
»Colorado lamb chops, flaming mojito glaze
Mixed grill (chicken breast, filet medallions, italian sausage)
»Gulf fish of the day, jumbo lump crabmeat, lemon butter)
Marinated and roasted double chicken breast
Desserts

»Bread pudding

»Creme brulee
Lilikoi (passionfruit)
Chocolate panna cotta with strawberries

FOR BEST RESULTS
Although the new restaurant doesn’t yet have the oversupply of regulars that Mr. John’s does, it is very busy, and reservations are a very good idea–even for lunch.

OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
Dump the New Age music, bring in Sinatra. The logo in the back of the main room is garish.

FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.

  • Dining Environment +2
  • Consistency +2
  • Service+2
  • Value
  • Attitude +2
  • Wine & Bar +1
  • Hipness +1
  • Local Color +2

 

SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES

  • Romantic
  • Good view
  • Good for business meetings
  • Open Monday lunch
  • Historic
  • Pay valet parking
  • Reservations recommended

ANECDOTES AND ANALYSIS
Just when it seems clear that we have enough steakhouses to meet the demand, another two or three–always at the top end of the price spectrum–move in. This one is particular note, however. After over a decade of success fourteen blocks uptown, the owners of Mr. John’s Steakhouse reached capacity. With no room to expand where it is, they opened a branch in a great location: in a commanding location on a growing restaurant row, in a neighborhood clearly on the way up.


1 Readers Commented

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  1. John on July 19, 2014

    My friends and I became regulars at Mr. John’s and were fortunate enough to come to know Desi and his family. A lot of us travel extensively and we all rate Desi’s steaks the best we have eaten anywhere. (Kansas City, Dallas, San Fransisco, overseas, etc.).

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