Diary For 9/19/2018: Visiting Saba, Successor To Shaya (Sort Of)
Magazine Street continues to be the most interesting theater of restaurant dining since Katrina. Of particular interest has been the relocation of Alon Shaya’s restaurant from the Bouligny part of Uptown to the intersection of Magazine @ Nashville Avenue. Specifically, Saba now occupies the building that had been the sleek Southern cafe Kenton’s. Kenton’s food was good, but Southern cookery made it seem disturbingly different from Creole and Cajun, and a lot of people get their heads around it.
Complicating the situation was the bust-up between Chefs John Besh and his business partner Alon Shaya, who together built Domenica and the Israel-style Shaya. The latter was a major success, having been named best new restaurant in America by Esquire, among other authorities.
My daughter Mary Leigh has been wanting to have dinner with me so we can stay well connected. She was beaming after recently getting a substantial promotion from the art-centered company she works for. Every time I see her she’s loaded with good news. Even the house renovation she has been working on with Mary Ann has been progressing, with a break in the rain torrents of late.
To make a long story short, we secured a reservation at Saba, and ordered some five appetizer-size plates of dips, for the most part. Also scattered around the table were another four or so sides with vegetables and starches. It was all a delightful overload, and we had enough food for nearly twice our numbers. That cost $80, but seemed reasonable.
The central flavors were those of Shaya’s excellent hummus, seasoned differently from plate to plate. The puffy,-hot-out-of-the-oven bread pita was has much a hit as it was in at Shaya. We consumed more than our share.
The food was good, but the company even more so. ML and I have much to talk about, and she works so long and hard that I don’t get enough time with her. But it was delightful tonight.
Saba. Uptown: 5757 Magazine St. 504-324-7770.
September 20, 2017
Summer Ends Tomorrow.
Fettuccine Frenzy: Wednesdays, Thursdays & Fridays through September @ Middendorf’s.
Today is National Mussels Day. Mussels, once a rarity on New Orleans menus, have become commonplace. Mussels are bivalves, related to oysters, and similar to them in many ways. The best mussels have thin blue-black shells and meats that are about half the size of an oyster’s. They are inexpensive–a good thing, because anything less than two dozen mussels doesn’t even make for much of an appetizer. In restaurants that specialize in mussels, they come out in huge bowls containing even more than that. In Belgium–the mussel-eating capital of the world–they’re served by the bucketful. I counted sixty-two mussels in one of those in Ghent one lunch.
The most common recipe for mussels involves steaming them in a pan with the water that comes out when they open, along with wine, garlic, herbs, and butter or olive oil. But many variations exist. A common one is to add tomato to the sauce.
The traditional way to eat mussels is to use a fork to dislodge the first one, then use its now-empty shell to loosen each succeeding mussel. As you go through a serving of mussels, you’ll find that the meats come in two colors. The cream-colored ones are the females; the orange ones are the males.
We see two kinds of mussels here. The first and better are the black mussels, the best of which come from Prince Edward Island in Canada. The other kind are green-lipped mussels, a frozen product from New Zealand and Australia. They’re bigger, with pretty shells ringed with iridescent green. Perhaps they’re good there, but the flavor doesn’t survive the trip.
Two important things to know about cooking mussels. First, make sure they are very clean, with the byssus (“beard”) removed. Sometimes you need to cook them a little so they’ll open before you can get all the sand out, although these days the mussels you buy in stores are already very clean. (They cultivate them on ropes.) Second, any mussel that doesn’t gape open after being heated in a pan was dead on arrival and possibly bad. Throw it away. Mussels cook very quickly and begin to shrink alarmingly when overcooked, so take it easy.
Applejack Creek–named for the brandy made from distilled apple cider–is in central Idaho. It’s usually a dry wash, descending from 5234 feet down the heavily-forested slope of Mineral Mountain. It ends up three miles later in the Muddy Creek. Through intermediate rivers Applejack’s waters wind up in the Pacific Ocean through the Columbia River. It’s a thirteen-mile hike from the source of the Applejack to the nearest restaurant, Wild Bill’s in Garden Valley.
Annals Of Brewing
Today in 1759, Arthur Guinness leased the St. James’s Gate brewery in Dublin, Ireland. There he began brewing the iconic Guinness Stout. Around the world, pubs celebrate the day with toasts and music and partying in honor of Arthur and his works. Guinness became famous for more than just beer and ale: it also created the Guinness Book of World Records, originally designed to settle arguments in bars. As for the old brewery, it will go on for some time: the term of Guinness’s lease was nine thousand years.
Annals Of Food Journalism
Upton Sinclair was born on today in 1878. He was a crusading journalist–some called him a muckraker–whose books brought many atrocities in American life to public consciousness. His most famous work was The Jungle, an expose of the unspeakable sanitary standards practiced by much of the meat industry, particularly in Chicago. The book was such a powerful indictment that publishers wouldn’t touch it. Sinclair ultimately published the book himself. It became a best-seller, and its effects were immediate. Within a few years, food and drug purity acts were being promulgated throughout the country and at the federal level. For Sinclair himself, what he saw turned him into a vegetarian.
Great Moments In Hunger
Today in 1832, Mahatma Gandhi began a hunger strike–one of several he would undertake in his life–to protest the way the Indian caste called “untouchables” were treated.
littleneck clam, n.–The smallest, tenderest specimens of the hard-shell clams found all along the northern Atlantic Coast. Littlenecks are the same species as the larger quahogs used for making clam chowder–just younger and smaller. They are eaten raw on the half shell, steamed, baked (sometimes with a thick, bread-crumb-crusted sauce), or in a white sauce for pasta. Like the slightly larger cherrystones, littlenecks get their name from the place where large beds of them once lived: Little Neck Bay, on Long Island, New York.
Annals Of Food Franchising
William Rosenberg, the man who created Dunkin’ Donuts in 1948, died on this date in 2002. His shops were doing pretty well, but what turned them into the world’s biggest chain of bakeries was franchising, which he began in 1955. He later became a promoter of franchising in other businesses. Franchising restaurants has certainly been successful, and it’s credited with improving the business standards of the whole industry. On the other hand, it has not been good for the quality aspects of restaurants–at least not in major food towns like New Orleans.
Alluring Dinner Dates
Today is the birthday, in 1934, of Sophia Loren,one of the most delicious women ever to appear on the big screen. My favorite cinematic moment involving her was in the 1950s movie Houseboat, in which she dangles a long, bare leg in the water over the side of the boat. “Dolce far niente!” she says in Italian to Cary Grant. “How sweet to do nothing!” she translates. For a long time, I thought that the Far Niente winery and its sweet wine Dolce were references to this bit of dialogue, but when I told them that they looked at me with puzzlement.
The electric stove made its first appearance today, in 1858. George B. Simpson of Washington, DC designed what he called the “electroheater.” It wasn’t very effective, because the powerful electricity needed to generate major heat wasn’t widely available. But it introduced for the first time the idea of cooking over heat produced by something other than a fire.
I live in a place where natural gas lines don’t run. So I have an electric stove. This surprises most people, who hold to the idea (which I’ll admit is true) that gas is quite a bit superior to electricity for cooking. However, necessity is a mother, and after sixteen years I’ve become so accustomed to cooking with my radiant glass-surfaced stovetop that I’d say I can do anything on it this side of wok cookery as well as I could using gas.
Sir James Dewar, a British chemist and physicist, was born today in 1842. One of his many areas of studies was the physics of low temperatures. In order to hold those temperatures as long as possible, he invented a double-walled contained that became known as a Dewar Bottle. It was the first example of what evolved into the Thermos bottle. He had nothing to do with the Scotch of the same name. (No, not Thermos Scotch.)
Food In Music
The Archies–a group of session musicians who never performed anywhere but in the studio–had a Number One hit on this date in 1969 with Sugar, Sugar. It was supposed to be Archie, Jughead, Reggie, Veronica, and Betty from the Archie comic books, and indeed a cartoon was made of them singing the song. It was the biggest bubble-gum record of all time.
Jazz pioneer and piano great Jelly Roll Morton was born today in 1885. . . Italian pop singer Mia Martini was shaken but not stirred today in 1947. . . Chet Lemon hit his 200th career home run today in 1988. . . Pro baseballer Jason Bay entered the Big League today in 1978.
Words To Eat By
“Everything you see I owe to spaghetti.”–Sophia Loren, born today in 1934.
Words To Drink By
“The only things that distinguish us from the rest of the animals. . . is our habit of drinking when we are not thirsty and making love at any time.–Pierre Beaumarchais, French playwright, revolutionary, and inventor in the 1700s.