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DiningDiarySquare-150x150 Diary: Friday, June 27, 2018. The Most Unusual Omelette. A few Sundays ago, the Cool Water Ranch crowd gathered on a Sunday morning for brunch at Ox Lot Nine in Covington. The menu doesn’t change a lot there, and the interior design of the place creates a happy situation for the Marys and me. I ordered an item they called a frittata–the Italian word for an omelette. It was unlike any frittata I’ve had before. And even farther removed from any omelette in my experience. It was more like a casserole, but with a cloud-like texture. Nothing like anything I’ve had before, with or without the omelette moniker.

Today, I ordered the frittata again, and asked the chef how it was made. He let me belly up in the kitchen to watch the technique.

The dish begins with a small cast-iron skillet heated in a high oven. In went a bit of butter along with wild mushrooms, crabmeat, Manchego cheese, and some slivered leeks. When all these elements have withered from the heat, a mixture of fifteen eggs to a quart of whipping cream fills the gaps in the skillet. (Not all of the eggs/cream blend is used–just enough to fill the skillet.)

Back into the oven went the skillet, until little dark edges form agreeably. A handful of baby greens get scattered across the top. Ta-da! This is brilliant in flavor, appearance, aroma and every other way. And I’ve never seen anything quite like this before. If I were giving an award for the best new brunch item of the year, this would be it. And with all that crabmeat, this is a good deal at $17.

Two other conditions made this an exceptional Sunday brunch. One was the roasting quality of the temperature that morning. Even the short walk to and from my car made me feel as if my skin were being blasted away. And the musicians standing at the door were as listenable as usual. I tried the persuade them to play “Cool Water,” which seemed to me the perfect music for this glaringly hot weather.

And to think that summer is just getting started!

Ox Lot 9. Covington: 428 E Boston St . 985-400-5663.

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