Rough Renewal Step One

The Feasting Season Begins! Don’t Miss The Best Of It It’s time to renew your subscription to the New Orleans Menu Daily By Tom Fitzmorris For avid eaters, the best part of fall and winter in New Orleans is the Reveillon. That annual celebration of the holidays has the best restaurants in town devising holiday-tuned four-course dinners for prices that are too good to pass up. The Reveillon is underway now, with over 60 restaurants participating. Every weekday in the New Orleans Menu Daily, we focus on one of these…

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5-Star Back Issue: 11/16/2018: Jack Rose

Diary: 11/15/2018: Jack Rose, Formerly Known As The Pontchartrain Hotel’s Caribbean Room. Mary Ann called me at the radio station with plans with our longtime friends Oliver and Caroline Kluna. In line with her idea to go mostly to new restaurants on the South Shore, we went to Jack Rose, the reborn Caribbean Room. I am hearing varying reports about the famous old hotel. Most of these express puzzlement. In the most recent renaissance–orchestrated by no less than John Besh and Company–the restaurant made a big splash that left the…

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Best Thanksgiving Restaurants, 2018

Thanksgiving is not the busiest day in the year for restaurants, but it is the time when things have a way of becoming most frantic. It’s also a day in which finding a reservation is most difficult. Calling ahead months is a very good idea, particularly if you’re planning on having Thanksgiving dinner with many family members and friends. Tables in famous restaurants are also hard to nail down. Finally, if what you want from the restaurant is a big feast, it’s essential to make your reservation in, say, September…

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Thanksgiving In New Orleans Restaurants

Andrea’s. Metairie 2: Orleans Line To Houma Blvd. 3100 19th St. 504-834-8583. . Annadele Plantation. Covington. 71518 Chestnut St. 985-809-7669. In a 1850s building, it’s hard for noise to get a toehold. Beautiful place.. Arnaud’s. French Quarter. 813 Bienville. 504-523-5433. . Bistreaux. French Quarter. 1001 Toulouse St. 504-586-8000. . Borgne. CBD. 601 Loyola Ave (Hyatt Regency Hotel). 504-613-3860. . Bourbon House. French Quarter. 144 Bourbon. 504-522-0111. . Brennan’s. French Quarter. 417 Royal. 504-525-9711. As big a restaurant as the newly-restored Brennan’s is, most of the rooms are on the small…

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5-Star Back Issue 9/27/2018. Lunch At Desi Vega’s.

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5Star NOMenu Back Issue 8/3/2018

8/1/2018 Un-Vacation I never could quite pull together a description of what the New Orleans Menu Daily published in lieu of a newsletter during the five days at the end of July. But we’ve passed those days now, and I took notes. The central event was the baptism of my new grandson Bennet. Bennet is the brother of Jackson, the firstborn son of my son Jude. Mary Ann suggested that we must attend this addition to my list of successors. We spent a lot of time hanging out with Jackson,…

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Eat Club @Trenasse

Upcoming Eat Club Dinners Eat Club @Vyoone’s CBD: 412 Conti. Click here for reservations. Scroll down for details, menus, reservation form, list of reservations and general info about the Eat Club. Click here to reserve. The most active part of the New Orleans restaurant world these days has brought quite a few new restaurants to the corder between the CBD and the Warehouse District. This one is at the intersection of Girod and Tchoupitoulas Streets, next door to Emeril’s Meril. It’s a partnership between Dr. Segue Lewis and ZohReh Khaleghi….

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5-Star Back Issue-7/31/2018

Visiting Los Angeles For Food. However, there was one welcome escape: the Langham Hotel, a magnificent but calm refuge from all the buying and selling. MA discovered the Langham some ten years ago. She loves luxurious hotels as a hobby, and this one fits the category. So we begin our days with breakfast on the edge of the pool at the Langham. This is not cheap, but it’s not bad. Indeed, the same can be said about the room rates. When the bill for the five days we spent at…

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Pizza From The Grill.

Grilled Pizza When we have a pizza party, we often make it an outdoor event and bake the pizzas on the open grill. This works better than you can possibly imagine. You don’t even have to put the top down on the grill, unless it’s a windy, cold day. Any pizza topping works, except one: pepperoni, which needs heat from above, just sits there getting flaccid and unpleasant. Spinach and other vegetable pizzas are particularly good done on the grill. The best way to make pizza dough is in a…

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Future Eat Club Dinner-England-Ireland

Diary: June 28, 2018. The Canada-New England Detachment of the Eat Club Meets Again. I don’t know how it happened, but the New Orleans Eat Club managed to sign up over sixty people who want to join me for a cruise we’ve done four times in the past. There’s something about the idea of fall colors in New England that draws a strong interest for people who live in New Orleans, where we get very few autumn leaves. Many of the people who will join us have connections with Brother…

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Eat Club To Great Britain, Ireland, France

Join Tom Fitzmorris and Friends While You Cruise Through Great Britain, Ireland, and France Aboard the Crown Princess, August 12-26, 2019 On August 17, 2019, the New Orleans Eat Club will fly into the general neighborhood of London. We’ll work our way to to Southhampton, where we’ll board the Princess Cruise Lines’s ship The Crown Princess. For the next twelve days, we’ll indulge in the Eat Club’s first trip to Europe since 2015. And, what with the many people I know with Irish roots, a great one it will be!…

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5-Star NOMenu Back Issue 8/7/2018

Saturday, August, 4, 2018. A New Place For Breakfast. An Old Chef For Dinner. The day begins with Mary Ann and I breakfasting at a new spot in Mandeville. Daisy Duke’s is the name, with a mild Cajun-Creole tilt. (The name is a reference to a character in a Southern-style movie.) It first appeared in the French Quarter, and in recent times it expand into other locations in and around New Orleans. The Mandeville site is in the same strip mall where La Carreta operates. (It’s a little hard to…

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5-Star Back Issue NOMenu 7/1/2018

Diary, Monday, 6/26/2018. The Beautiful Roast Beef Poor Boy On A Monday. It’s the beginning of nearly a week in which I am truly alone. The Marys are visiting the Los Angeles Branch of the Family, leaving me with Mary Leigh, who has been keeping late hours herself with her museum project. I haven’t eaten anything significant all day. When I struck out to supper, I find that all the restaurants I considered were closed for the usual Monday absence. I had particular hopes for Gallagher’s Grill. The buzz about…

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5-Star Back Issue

Cold Eats For Hot Days Not that you need reminding but the last few weeks have been the hottest of the season, with plenty more where that came from. It seems obvious that eating cold food will make you feel cooler than eating hot food will. But that wisdom seems to be lost on most Orleanians. I don’t follow the notion much myself, and I’m supposed to know about these things. During the past couple of weeks, I gave the practice of eating cold foods a trial, and surveyed my…

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5-Star Edition 6/25/2018

Cold Eats For Hot Days Not that you need reminding but the last few weeks have been the hottest of the season, with plenty more where that came from. It seems obvious that eating cold food will make you feel cooler than eating hot food will. But that wisdom seems to be lost on most Orleanians. I don’t follow the notion much myself, and I’m supposed to know about these things. During the past couple of weeks, I gave the practice of eating cold foods a trial, and surveyed my…

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Diary: Father’s Day, Sunday, June 24, 2018. Impastato Cellars. It looks as if all the women of all ages tried to express remorse their for not paying much attention to Father’s Day. This is particularly true for young adult women with not-quite-elderly fathers or husbands, who tend to treat the men involved as if having a special Sunday brunch were a parodies of the real holiday of Mother’s Day. However, I could not accuse the Marys as having been among those slackers. I received a funny card with an audio…

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5-Star Back Issue 6/20/2018

Diary: Tuesday, June 12, 2018: It’s another one of those evenings when I can’t seem to think of a place to dine that will suit my tastes, my time, and other matters. When it gets down to this level of consideration, I probably will be headed in the general direction of the Causeway, where there are many restaurants, but too many I’ve already reviewed often enough. Today this situation brings me to Bistro Orleans. I haven’t been there in six months or more, the menu has changed a bit, from…

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New Orleans Menu

Diary For Monday, 6/18/2018: Acme Is In Vogue. I don’t remember how or when Mary Ann’s disdain for the Acme Oyster House began, but all the aspects of it were in place as we left for an early lunch yesterday. MA said she wanted a full dozen of the char-broiled variety. These came out on the distinctly large side, which is a plus to me. MA doesn’t really like oysters, especially not the really big ones. What she likes is the mixture of butter, garlic and Parmesan cheese that make…

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5-Star New Orleans Menu

Diary: Tuesday, June 12, 2018: It’s another one of those evenings when I can’t seem to think of a place to dine that will suit my tastes, my time, and other matters. When it gets down to this level of consideration, I probably will be headed in the general direction of the Causeway, where there are many restaurants, but too many I’ve already reviewed often enough. Today this situation brings me to Bistro Orleans. I haven’t been there in six months or more, the menu has changed a bit, from…

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Five-Star Edition

https://nomenu.com/wp-admin/post.php?post=50540&action=edit Diary: Father’s Day, Sunday, June 24, 2018. Impastato Cellars. It looks as if all the women of all ages tried to express remorse their for not paying much attention to Father’s Day. This is particularly true for young adult women with not-quite-elderly fathers or husbands, who tend to treat the men involved as if having a special Sunday brunch were a parodies of the real holiday of Mother’s Day. However, I could not accuse the Marys as having been among those slackers. I received a funny card with an…

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Deviled Crab Cakes

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RecipeSquare-150x150 Make this recipe instead of moaning over the disappearance of the canned codfish New Orleanians like to make during Lent. Codfish is largely fished out, and not often found at all down here. Use crabmeat instead, and you’ll have something. If jumbo lump crabmeat seems not penitential enough, use claw crabmeat. Read entire article.

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5-Star Back Issue 5/18/2018

Diary: Friday, 05-18-2018 || Heavy Rain, Floods, Escape to Vyoon’s. A noisy storm released downpours, lightning, premature darkness, and a reluctance to leave the radio studios for home. After taking a nap in my office and watching the progress of the rain on our news department’s radars and reports from Channel Four’s forecasters, I came up with a more interesting idea. After checking to make sure it was open, my umbrella and I made our way to Vyoon’s, the new restaurant around the corner from the studio. There I found…

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5-Star Back Issue 5/10/2018

Monday, May 7, 2018. The Offbeat Muffuletta Is On The Railroad Tracks. The Marys head out for their house renovation early in the morning. They’re getting potential contractors to come by and look over the plans. They are finding that one must explain in tiny detail what they wanted done, because it’s possible that a contractor might mis-hear what the Marys want and how much they’re willing to pay for it. The girls join me for lunch at Lola, the popular salad-and-soup cafĂ© in Covington. It’s built into an old…

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Diary: Sat., May 4-5, 2018. Chef Duke’s New Place.

Diary: Saturday, May 5, 2018. A busy day begins pleasantly enough, with breakfast at Mattina Bella. I am served by a new face from among owner Vincent Riccobono’s family. His daughters and granddaughters have made up a large part of the wait staff, coming and going over the years. It’s a family operation in the way restaurants are in, say, Italy. The new girl tells me that there’s a special today: a blueberry waffle. This caught my attention mainly because during the holidays they made several such variations, with flavoring…

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Diners Want To Go Out, Be Served. 5/7/2018

Diary: 5/4/2018: Is Delivery The End Of The Restaurant? The Comforts Of Andy’s Bistro. Don Amez, one of the reporter-writers in the WWL newsroom, found an article that he thought was worthy of consideration by the Food Desk (that would be me). In essence, the article predicts that people will be getting more and more of their meals on order from their smart phones or other such mechanisms, and they will then eat them in their homes. It is predicted that this will also remove supermarkets and home kitchens from…

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Food Almanac Monday, 5|7|2018

May 7, 2017 Days Until. . . Mother’s Day–May 13 Annals Of New Orleans New Orleans was founded today in 1718. Jean-Baptiste Le Moyne, Sieur de Bienville, chose a high spot in a sharp bend of the Mississippi River to begin a French colonial town. It’s where the French Quarter is now. He named the place for Duke of Orleans, Phillippe II, a flamboyant guy. The feminine form of the city’s French name–La Nouvelle Orleans–is a joke about his personality. Nobody questioned whether this were a good place to put…

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NOMenu 5-Star Edition. 5/4/2018

Rizzuto’s Tomahawk. Another One At Apolline. The Latest Line-Up For Dinner. I continue to find more evidence for my conviction that thick pork chops of excellent intrinsic merits are better than all but the very most expensive steaks. (Which someone will order for no reason other than to obey the imperative that one should spend the most for what might be the best.) This one came from the steaks-and-chops side of the menu at Rizzuto’s, where I repaired for dinner a month ago. (I meant to report on it sooner,…

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The Future Of New Orleans Food Criticism.

The Future Of Restaurant Criticism. This article originally was prepared to appear in the NOMenu Daily a few days ago, when a computer glitch made the whole article disappear. It was almost as if it were trying to tell me something. A lot of people wrote me, asking me what the deal was. Simply, it speaks for itself. But it’s not announcing my exit from the profession. I don’t expect to check out of this enterprise anytime soon. Sorry if you find it puzzling.–Tom Fitzmorris. It’s easy to get a…

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The Future Of New Orleans Restaurant Criticism.

The Future Of Restaurant Criticism. This article originally was prepared to appear in the NOMenu Daily a few days ago, when a computer glitch made the whole article disappear. It was almost as if it were trying to tell me something. A lot of people wrote me, asking me what the deal was. Simply, it speaks for itself. But it’s not announcing my exit from the profession. I don’t expect to check out of this enterprise anytime soon. Sorry if you find it puzzling.–Tom Fitzmorris. It’s easy to get a…

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Zea-Oysters; Beans-Catfish

Diary. Sunday, April 22, 2018. Here’s Zea’s weekly routine. Sundays at Zea means the restaurant’s excellent (for a chain) specials, dishes that have been lauded for me many times over the years. Too often, really, but that’s restates how good are these seasonal specials over the years. The first of these started out as a Lenten special. But it’s no more common during that time of the year than it is right now. Asian oysters, it’s called. Seems simple enough: fried oysters with an unusually coarse coating. They come out…

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Eat Club @ Vyoones: CBD, WED May 16, 2018.

Upcoming Eat Club Dinners Eat Club @Vyoone’s CBD: 412 Conti. Click here for reservations. Click here to reserve. The most active part of the New Orleans restaurant world these days has brought quite a few new restaurants to the corder between the CBD and the Warehouse District. This one is at the intersection of Girod and Tchoupitoulas Streets, next door to Emeril’s Meril. It’s a partnership between Dr. Segue Lewis and ZohReh Khaleghi. Zohreh had been operating the Flaming Torch Uptown until it came to a halt in, ironically, a…

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Diary: FR 4/20/2028: Arnaud’s And Other Crowded Places.

Friday, April 20, 2018. The French Quarter Is Full. Every Friday, my thoughts turn to grand dinners, preferably at one of the grande dame restaurants in the French Quarter. Today I am thinking about indulging this hunger at Arnaud’s. As soon as the radio show ended for the week, I turned my steps toward the handsome restaurant and its bright walls of glittering beveled glass. There I learn that every seat in the entire restaurant is taken. I look around for a waiter or manager or some other familiar face,…

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Diary, 4|11, 12|2018: Brilliance At Borgne, And From The LPO

Wednesday, April 11, 2018. Dark And Unfamiliar. The, Brilliance In Food And Music! The drive home last night from the Best Chefs event was nostalgic and creepy at the same time. During the six years when most of my life was staged in or around the University of New Orleans, I knew all the buildings, restaurants (very few) and private neighborhoods. I have had very little occasion to return to those parts since I landed my first big job, well away from UNO. The whole area has become foreign territory…

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Diary: 4/8-9-&10/2018 A Weekend Of Substitution. Best Chefs.

Sunday, April 8-9, 2018. Demoted Singer. Chicken Pannee With Two Sauces. The Wagners–who usually lead the singing at St. Jane’s ten o’clock Mass, but were supposed to be absent today–left me to be the cantor. But they showed up, so I was just the usual singer in the loft. It’s just as well, since we have not run a rehearsal. But then I hear that the Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra performs its performances with only two rehearsals. In the afternoon, Mary Leigh came in from Meridian. She didn’t take the train…

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