Fried Chicken
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Fried Chicken

Confession: I never make fried chicken the same way twice. It’s a work in progress that’s been going on for over ten years. This recipe is an amalgamation of the ideas that resulted in the most delicious chicken–so far. Read More. . .

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Chicken Grandee

This dish was made famous at Mosca’s, but it spread to many other restaurants around New Orleans. Each of them cooks it a little differently. (Mosca’s doesn’t use the sausage or bell pepper in theirs.) Feel free to add a few items of your own into the broiling pan. (If this sounds like chicken Vesuvio, then welcome to New Orleans from the Northeast!) Read More. . .

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Chicken Chasseur
Birds: Chicken & Turkey

Chicken Chasseur

“Chasseur” is French for “hunter.” So this dish has the flavor you’d expect from a cook who spent a lot of time prowling the woods. Mushrooms, for one thing, are in there. And the dish is simply prepared, because what hunter goes around making cream sauces? This dish comes from the kitchen of the old Delmonico’s, with a few updatings here and there. Read More. . .

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Supreme de Volaille et Homard
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Supreme de Volaille et Homard

RecipeSquare-150x150 Sorry about the French name. I just couldn’t think of a fancy way of saying “chicken and lobster” without your thinking I was talking about a chicken lobster (the little ones that restaurants sell cheap). This is a dish that was presented on October 12, 1991 by Chef Felix Sturmer at the Westin Canal Place. I had challenged him to do an all-white-food dinner, and this is one of the dishes he came up with. Recipe details. . .

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Cane-Smoked Turkey Recipe
Birds: Chicken & Turkey

Cane-Smoked Turkey Recipe

Cane-Smoked Turkey I cook my turkey in a big barbecue pit. It gets hotter than a smoker, but because I keep the turkey away from direct heat, it cooks slowly and absorbs a lot of smoky flavor. It comes out with a crisp skin with a beautiful orange-bronze color. It also smells wonderful, and retains more moisture than it would if it were cooked any other way. I get the sugar cane that I use with the charcoal from a friend’s sugar plantation. It’s worth the trip upriver to St….

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Chicken With Artichokes And Pasta
Birds: Chicken & Turkey

Chicken With Artichokes And Pasta

The Red Onion was a great Metairie restaurant that closed in the early 1980s. On its menu was a great chicken dish that involved artichokes somehow. It’s impossible to get recipes from closed restaurants, but I remembered the taste, so I took a shot at recapturing it. I doubt this is how they did it, but it’s close enough for me. Read More. . .

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Chicken Pannee
Birds: Chicken & Turkey

Chicken Pannee

The word “pannee” is is used as a noun, adjective, or even a verb. It means that the food at the center (it could be almost anything, meat, seafood, or vegetable) is coated with bread crumbs and fried in a pan with about a quarter-inch depth of hot oil. Whether the word is a reference to the pan or to the breading (“pain, the French word for bread) is in dispute. What we know for certain that panneed anything is good, and chicken is among the best possible options for the technique. Read More. . .

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Cornish Hens With Peppercorn Red Wine Sauce
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Cornish Hens With Peppercorn Red Wine Sauce

I found this recipe in a folder deep in my file cabinet, written in my hand on radio stationery and dated 1988. I remembered it only vaguely. So I cooked it, and liked it enough to know that a) it’s not an original recipe of mine and b) I wish I had thought of it. It’s very French in style, and turns the chicken-like Cornish hen (which I rather like anyway) into something wonderful. Try to find the demi-glace this thing calls for. You can now buy demi in gourmet food stores and gourmet-to-go places. And if you have a good relationship with a restaurant, they may sell it to you, as well. Read More. . .

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Chicken Newsham With Tzatziki Sauce
Birds: Chicken & Turkey

Chicken Newsham With Tzatziki Sauce

You have to be a little careful making these, but the flavor is more satisfying than what you usually get from precious little appetizers made in layers. The hardest part is cutting and getting the first one out of the pan. This both looks and tastes Greek (the tzatziki sauce completes the effect). I named it for my late friend John “Chauncey” Newsham, who with his beautiful Greek wife and singer Julia Pappas operated the best Greek restaurant in New Orleans history–the Royal Oak Restaurant and Pub in Gretna. Read More. . .

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Coq au Vin
Birds: Chicken & Turkey

Coq au Vin

RecipeSquare-150x150 This is an old French classic chicken dish–one that may go all the way back to the Roman Empire. Its name tells us that it began as away to use roosters past their prime. But now it’s almost always prepared with standard chickens, preferably older ones. There’s something about coq au vin that seems Creole to me. Perhaps it captures the state of French cooking at the time New Orleans was founded. More to come. . .

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Austin Leslie’s Fried Chicken
Birds: Chicken & Turkey

Austin Leslie’s Fried Chicken

Austin Leslie’s Fried Chicken I first met Austin Leslie in 1973, very early in my career as a food writer. In the 1960s and before, it had been uncommon for white people to dine in African-American-owned restaurants. Those who did found them welcoming and delicious. Richard Collin–the “The Underground Gourmet” and my mentor–encouraged those of the pale persuasion to try places like Austin Leslie’s place, Chez Helene. I talked with Austin the second or third time I went to Chez Helene. Somehow, he always recognized me, even after we hadn’t…

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Confetti Chicken Dumplings
Birds: Chicken & Turkey

Confetti Chicken Dumplings

Confetti Chicken Dumplings Here’s a tasty variation on pot stickers. Instead of being stuffed with pork or beef, these use chicken and crunchy vegetables, and are finished off with a sauce of goat cheese. So they’re a fusion of the Far and Near Easts. And eats. Hunh? Good. 1 boneless, skinless chicken breast 4 Tbs. olive oil 1/2 cup chopped green onions 1/2 cup fresh mushrooms, coarsely chopped 1/4 cup red bell pepper, finely diced 1/4 cup yellow bell pepper, finely diced 1/4 cup fresh spinach, coarsely chopped 1 pkg….

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Roasted Chicken Aline
Birds: Chicken & Turkey

Roasted Chicken Aline

Roasted Chicken Aline If I had to live on just one entree the rest of my life, this would be it. I love a good roasted chicken, like the one my mother (Aline) used to make every Sunday when I was a kid. After this chicken comes out of the oven, you can add almost any sauce or garnish to it you like, but it’s very good as is. Buy a free-range chicken or the smallest chicken you can find at the store. Feel free to vary the array of…

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Mandarin Chicken
Birds: Chicken & Turkey

Mandarin Chicken

Mandarin Chicken Mandarin chicken is fried chicken with a brown sauce–one made essentially with a roux and soy sauce as the main ingredients. How it became as popular as it is in New Orleans Chinese restaurants is hard to fathom. In the dark days when people were afraid of Chinese food, the Chinese restaurants came up with a dish that the round-eyes found unchallenging. People can get used to anything, and many of them developed a taste for this. So many people ask me for this that, in a weak…

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Turkey Poulette
Birds: Chicken & Turkey

Turkey Poulette

Turkey Poulette Sliced turkey with a thick, pale, warm sauce, cheese and bacon–this is an old luncheon favorite that is now nearly extinct. And perhaps it should be. However, people who remember it fondly as a standard at the Roosevelt Hotel might not think so–even if it’s been forty years since the last time they tried it. It’s just one of those dishes. In modern times, the Peppermill in Metairie has been about the only restaurant even attempting to keep turkey poulette alive. The poulette sauce that holds all the…

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Foil Chicken, Indian Style
Birds: Chicken & Turkey

Foil Chicken, Indian Style

Foil Chicken, Indian Style The tiny Taj Mahal is the third restaurant operated by the Keswani family, who have a verve for getting Orleanians to try their native Indian cuisine. This dish is based upon their most popular item, tandoori chicken–marinated chicken roasted in the superheated clay-pot oven called a tandoor. 2 chickens, about 2 1/2 lbs. each Marinade: 6 Tbs. yogurt 1 1/2 Tbs. lemon juice 1 Tbs. oil 1 egg 1/2 tsp. paprika 1/2 tsp. salt 1/2 tsp. red pepper 1 tsp. granulated onion 1/2 tsp. fresh ginger…

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Chicken with White Bordelaise
Birds: Chicken & Turkey

Chicken with White Bordelaise

Chicken with White Bordelaise Bordelaise sauce in New Orleans is usually nothing much more than garlic-and-parsley butter. But the original Bordelaise (which means “from Bordeaux”) always includes red wine. This variation created by Chef Dennis Hutley at his now-gone restaurant Le Parvenu is a white wine bordelaise enriched with a little cream. It makes a light entree with a lot of flavor. 4 chicken breasts, skin and bones removed 2 Tbs. clarified margarine (or butter or olive oil) 1 tsp. pureed fresh garlic 1/4 cup dry white wine 3/4 cup…

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Chicken Clemenceau
Birds: Chicken & Turkey

Chicken Clemenceau

Chicken Clemenceau This once-popular old Creole dish is kept alive almost single-handedly by Galatoire’s. I think its decline is more about the unwillingness of chefs–for a variety of reasons having nothing to do with flavor–to serve chicken. Chicken Clemenceau seems so homestyle a dish that it’s hard to imagine that at one time it was considered the kind of thing you’d get only from fancy restaurants. (It’s named for the World War I French premier.) Maybe this says how far we’ve come. It also says to me how many good,…

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Panang Chicken Curry
Birds: Chicken & Turkey

Panang Chicken Curry

Panang Chicken Curry Panang curry–a familiar item on Thai menus–is flavored the way people like it on the island of Panang, off the Southeast Asian coast. It’s best when made fiery hot. Only the coconut milk stands in the way of the pepper, which you can use here to the maximum extent you can stand. Don’t be shy! Panang curry paste can now be found in many regular supermarkets, as well as those leaning in a gourmet direction. And, of course, any Asian market. Although we like dishes like this…

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Chicken Bonne Femme
Birds: Chicken & Turkey

Chicken Bonne Femme

Chicken Bonne Femme “Good woman’s chicken” and its variations (chicken Clemenceau and chicken Pontalba) is one of the best dishes in the Creole cookbook. There is little agreement on how it’s prepared, but potatoes and garlic are always part of the recipe. This one evolved in my kitchen from the very good version at Antoine’s, with inspiration from the super-garlicky, great bonne femme at Tujague’s. 4 slices bacon, cut into 1 inch squares 2 chickens, about 3 1/2 lbs., quartered 2 Tbs. flour 1/2 cup ham, cut into tiny dice…

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New Orleans Chicken-and-Mushroom Hash

New Orleans Chicken-and-Mushroom Hash Defrosting our old extra refrigerator one weekend, I discovered six–SIX!–whole chickens in there. “They were on sale!” said my wife. I started thinking of things to do with them, and realized I hadn’t made chicken hash in ages. I decided to start from scratch and see if I could come up with a New Orleans-style approach to this old American classic. It was good enough to make over and over. Now I wait until some of the bolete mushrooms that grow in the woods next to…

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Chicken Etouffee

Chicken Etouffee Other foods besides crawfish lend themselves to the Creole-Cajun etouffee (“smothered”) cooking method. In fact, chicken etouffee is a classic, although it’s as rarely seen in restaurants as it is talked about. This version comes from Michael DeVidts, a cooking instructor at the New Orleans School of Cooking. When I broadcast my radio show from the school on the occasion of its thirtieth anniversary in 2010, Michael cooked this up and served it to all comers. I found it so good that I insisted he share the recipe,…

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Chicken In The Sticks

Chicken In The Sticks Here’s a nice, light chicken dish with a good flavor and a pleasant textural contrast from the crisp vegetables. It’s inspired by an old dish at the Peppermill in Metairie. It was called “chicken Dusseldorf,” but nobody knows why. It included shrimp, which I’ve left out. (But you could add it in step five if you like.) 1 yellow squash 1 zucchini (mirliton or cucuzza would also work) 1 large carrot, peeled 2 Tbs. melted butter 2 tsp. chopped fresh garlic 3 Tbs. flour 1 tsp….

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Diary 2|14|2016: No Valentines, But Great Fried Chicken.

Sunday, February 14, 2016. A New Approach To Fried Chicken. It’s Valentine’s Day, but Mary Ann feels that we have feasted enough in the eight days that began with my birthday, ran through Mardi Gras and our anniversary, and ended today. Even before the cycle began, a mysterious elf visited the Cool Water Ranch every night for three weeks. He left a little box holding two Baci chocolates–Mary Ann’s favorite–on top of the newel post on the stairs leading to the upstairs bedrooms. It was the first thing she saw…

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Vincent’s Garlic-Thyme Chicken

RecipeSquare-150x150 Vincent Catalanotto and I first met when we both worked as waiters in a fancy French restaurant called Romanoff’s in 1977. Years later, he opened up a wildly successful Italian restaurant in Metairie. This is my take on one of the best dishes there, a favorite on the menu since the place opened.

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Stewed Chicken with Brown Gravy

RecipeSquare-150x150 This is one of New Orleans’ favorite lunch specials–one which, unfortunately, is slipping away from us. The old Delmonico used to make the definitive version. Now Mandina’s is probably best. It’s always served with brown gravy over the chicken and rice. The vegetable of choice is peas, preferably with mushrooms in a roux.

Stewed chicken is made sort of like chicken gumbo, but with bigger pieces of chicken and less broth.

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Chicken Marengo

RecipeSquare-150x150 Chicken Marengo was invented by one of Napoleon’s cooks as the general’s first meal after the Battle of Marengo, which Napoleon considered his greatest victory. The original recipe included crawfish, but that has disappeared from most modern versions. Since we have crawfish here, I’ve returned it.

Full article>/h6>

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Grilled Marinated Chicken With Hot & Sweet Peppers

RecipeSquare-150x150 This was a standard dish for years at Brigtsen’s, and is a good example of the kind of robust, painstaking, but essentially simple dishes in that great little Creole bistro. Frank Brigtsen says it was the sort of thing he did a lot when he worked for Chef Paul Prudhomme.

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Chicken With Crabmeat And Asparagus In Pastry

RecipeSquare-150x150 This is a dish I got from Kim Kringlie, the chef and co-owner of the excellent Dakota restaurant in Covington. It was on their original menu in 1991, but I don’t think they’ve served it in a long time. It’s kind of an old-fashioned, homely dish. But it is very good. You can make smaller versions of this for finger-food appetizers but cutting the chicken smaller and using the thinnest asparagus. Read entire article.

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Chicken Livers With Bacon And Pepper Jelly

RecipeSquare-150x150 It’s time for chicken livers to return to the menus of New Orleans restaurants. We used to get them all the time in all sorts of dishes, but rarely anymore. A particular favorite of mine was the chicken liver omelette at the Coffee Pot. The Praline Connection made a hit with pepper-jelly-coated fried chicken livers. I borrowed that idea as well as the old rumaki concept from Chinese restaurants to give you this dish. This is absolutely spectacular served over a plate of red beans and rice. Read entire article.

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Chicken With Shrimp And Spinach

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RecipeSquare-150x150 This is a simple dish that somehow gives the impression of complexity. It also somehow gets past a dislike I have for poultry and seafood brought together. The idea came from Chef George Rhode IV, from back in the days when he ran his own restaurant. He began his career cooking at K-Paul’s, and was the first of many young chefs inspired by Chef Paul Prudhomme who went out on his own. He’s a successful corporate and consulting chef now.
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Stuffed Chicken With Black Bean Sauce

RecipeSquare-150x150 The black beans give this a great color contrast with the white chicken. It’s a Southwestern taste, and makes a terrific summertime dinner entree. It’s better served warm, rather than hot off the stove. Read entire article.

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Duncan McCarthy’s Chicken Adobo

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RecipeSquare-150x150 Adobo is a dish with an interesting history that combines Spanish and Asian influences. It’s best known in the Philippines, but the original idea came from Mexico, which in colonial days administered the Philippines for Spain. It has aspects of curry, Chinese and Mexican cooking. Great stuff, this. Read entire article.

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Pepper Jelly Chicken With Blue Cheese And Spinach Salad

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RecipeSquare-150x150 This dish will help you get rid of some of that pepper jelly you’re always getting as gifts (or the pepper jelly you made yourself that you can’t seem to unload). Maybe the stuff would be in greater demand if it came with a recipe like this one. Or maybe the dish itself. This is also a recipe to remember when you have a chunk of opened blue cheese in the drawer and a bag of spinach. Read entire article.

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