500BestSquareClaypot Curried Catfish With Glass Noodles @ Kim Son

This city’s longest-running Vietnamese restaurant has a number of dishes not often seen even in other Vietnamese places. This is one of them: a covered earthenware pot baked in the oven with a brothy sauce made with Thai-style red curry and a horseshoe-shaped steak of catfish. (It may well be Vietnamese catfish, which is something I usually avoid for trade reasons. But in a Vietnamese restaurant, it seems right.) Noodles fill out the bowl, but it remains almost as much a soup as anything else. The same fish, more or less, is made with chicken. Both versions are almost laughably cheap, yet leave a lasting impression.

Kim Son. Gretna: 349 Whitney Ave. 504-366-2489.

This is among the 500 best dishes in New Orleans area restaurants. Click here for a list of the other 499.

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