The namesake dish of the wildly popular Cajun restaurant in the Warehouse District was not very impressive the first couple of times I had it. Since then it’s become the best dish in the place, as it should be. It’s a lot of work, but simple, really: roast a whole suckling pig slowly, but not too slowly, and the meat starts falling off the bone with a melt-in-the-mouth flavor. Just the right amount of fat works its way through everything.

Cochon and cracklings.

Cochon and cracklings.

Cochon. Warehouse District: 930 Tchoupitoulas. 504-588-2123.

We find this dish to be among the 500 best in New Orleans area restaurants.

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