Crabmeat Cheesecake With Pecan Crust @ Palace Cafe
This first time I encountered a savory cheesecake was at Commander’s Palace, during Emeril Lagasse’s chefdom. Interesting idea: you combine all the standard ingredients for a cheesecake except the sweet ones. Then add an interesting savory ingredient or two. In this case, those are crabmeat and wild mushrooms. Surprise! What sounded like a really stupid idea emerges as a brilliant new flavor ensemble. When the Palace Café opened, crabmeat cheesecake was one of the specials on the original menu. It quickly became one of the most popular and best first courses at the P.C. The core of the dish is certainly good enough, and the pecan crust adds textural contrast. Wild mushrooms in an old-style brown meuniere sauce completes a delicious little plate of local flavor.
Palace Cafe. French Quarter: 605 Canal. 504-523-1661.
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