500BestSquareCrabmeat Imperial @ Michael’s

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Crabmeat Imperial is an old, rich dish, once common in white-tablecloth restaurants all over town. The Nouvelle Creole culinary revolution in the 1980s brought it to the edge of extinction, but a few chefs thought it good enough to keep alive. Michael Frederic was one of those. He also had a unique recipe for the dish, taking it easy on the mayonnaise and replacing that richness with a gratin-like bechamel. It’s a good thing it’s small or else your palate would blow a fuse. Lots of crabmeat, though.

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Michael’s. Slidell: 4820 Pontchartrain Dr. 985-649-8055.

This is among the 500 best dishes in New Orleans area restaurants. Click here for a list of the other 499.

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