500BestSquareCrawfish And Goat Cheese Crepes @ Muriel’s

This appetizer (made with shrimp when crawfish are out of season, with no loss of goodness) first appeared on Muriel’s menu during the chefhood of Erik Veney, who left for a few years but who returned a couple of years ago. Two subsequent chefs made many changes to the food during their times, but the crawfish and goat cheese crepes remain inviolate, a classic dish for which it’s hard to imagine an improvement. The goat cheese is inside the crepes, softened by an admixture of cream cheese and sharpened with chives and shallots. The crawfish are in the sauce, with butter, a little tomato, and bell peppers. It’s a wonderful taste with which to begin a meal–rich, but not too. Muriel’s recipe for this is here.

Muriel’s. French Quarter: 801 Chartres. 504-568-1885.

This is among the 500 best dishes in New Orleans area restaurants. Click here for a list of the other 499.

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