500BestSquareCreme Caramel @ Galatoire’s

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There was a time when almost every restaurant with white tablecloths had caramel custard among its dessert. The vogue shifted to creme brulee in the 1980s, and now cup custard (another one of the several names for the same thing) is a rarity. Through all these shifts of taste, one immutable truth has held: nobody makes caramel custard that can top Galatoire’s version. It’s silky, creamy, not too sweet, just the right touch of vanilla and caramel sauce. It’s what they bring you, with a candle on top, when it’s your birthday. I tell them it’s my birthday every time I dine at Galatoire’s.

Someone else who loves to find a gratis caramel custard while on his rounds: Santa Claus. Tomorrow night.

Galatoire’s. French Quarter: 209 Bourbon. 504-525-2021.

This is among the 500 best dishes in New Orleans area restaurants. Click here for a list of the other 499.

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