4 Fleur
EntreePrice-20
BreakfastNo Breakfast SundayNo Breakfast MondayNo Breakfast TuesdayNo Breakfast WednesdayNo Breakfast ThursdayNo Breakfast FridayNo Breakfast Saturday
LunchNo Lunch SundayNo Lunch MondayNo Lunch TuesdayNo Lunch WednesdayNo Lunch ThursdayNo Lunch FridayNo Lunch Saturday
DinnerNo Dinner SundayNo Dinner MondayDinner TuesdayDinner WednesdayDinner ThursdayDinner FridayDinner Saturday

Cypress

Metairie 3: Houma Blvd To Kenner Line: 4426 Transcontinental. 504-885-6885. Map.
Nice Casual
AE DC DS MC V
Website

Crab cakes.

Crab cakes.

ANECDOTES AND ANALYSIS
Among the most-loved restaurants are those whose customers believe that their goodness is known only to themselves. Secret restaurants, we might call them. The regular patrons are reluctant to talk about such restaurants, believing that the restaurant will become impenetrable if everybody in the world starts coming. In actual fact, that almost never happens, but the feeling is still comforting. All of the above applies to Cypress, whose location at the corner of two heavily-traveled arteries should make it better known than it is. But ssshhhh!

Veal with ravioli, sherry beurre blanc.

Veal with ravioli, sherry beurre blanc.

WHY IT’S NOTEWORTHY
Tucked away in the back of a complex of small strip malls, Cypress comes across as a pleasant surprise to all who go there–particularly first-timers. Indeed, the ambitious cooking does seem to be a few notches above what the place leads you to believe is the standard reality. Metairie has fewer white-tablecloth restaurants with good food than the population would dictate, and that fact keeps this good little restaurant busy.

WHAT’S GOOD
The chef has a taste for the Creole flavors, and less interest in reinventing the cuisine from scratch. His cooking is a shade ahead of the palates of his customers–enough to keep them interested. Servings are too large, but that doesn’t prevent the use of quality ingredients. The menu is a bit unusual in that the entree section is almost entirely composed of meats and poultry. The seafood is mostly in the first course, but those dishes are the size of some entrees I’ve seen.

BACKSTORY
Owner-chef Stephen Huth worked for many years as the chef de cuisine at the original Vincent’s. His father had a salon that backed up to Vincent’s, and was ready to retire from the business. Father and son renovated the salon into a restaurant in 2003, pretty much entirely with their own hands. Stephen literally walked through a hole in Vincent’s back fence, to open Cypress. Far from being upset by this, Vincent Catalanotto helped Huth cut the hole, and in other ways.

Filet mignon.

Filet mignon.

DINING ROOM
The rooms are small and reached through a mini-maze of hallways. The service staff and the chef’s wife (who runs the dining room) could not be more hospitable. There’s enough community among the locals that first-timers stick out a little.

REVIEWER’S NOTEPAD
More ruminations appear in our Dining Diary. Click on any of the dates below for those reports, each written a few days after a meal at Cypress.
7/24/2015 ~

FULL ONLINE MENU

BEST DISHES
Starters
Barbecue shrimp, rosemary biscuit
Grilled portobello, braised spinach, bacon, balsamic
Lobster ravioli, dill cream
Crawfish and crabmeat Parma (like a gratin)
Duck confit egg rolls, spicy soy-apricot glaze
Soup du jour
Roasted garlic soup
Duck salad

Entrees
Chef’s fish selection, crabmeat butter, asparagus
Grilled Angus filet mignon, mushroom demi-glace
Pan-seared duck breast, duck leg confit, andouille-cornbread dressing, huckleberry glaze
Grilled salmon, garlic spinach, citrus beurre blanc
Rosemary chicken, mushrooms, linguine
Molasses glazed pork loin, four-cheese macaroni, baby beans
Rabbit sauce piquant, spicy tomato broth, andouille rice pilaf

Desserts
Bread pudding
Dessert specials

FOR BEST RESULTS
Order one course fewer than you ordinarily would. Splitting appetizers and salads will not leave either of the sharers hungry.

OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
To my appetites, the menu is a bit off-balance on the side of rich and filling. A few lighter dishes would be welcome.

FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.

  • Dining Environment +1
  • Consistency +2
  • Service+2
  • Value +1
  • Attitude +2
  • Wine & Bar
  • Hipness +1
  • Local Color

 

SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES

  • Romantic
  • 8-25
  • Unusually large servings
  • Good for children
  • Easy, nearby parking
  • Reservations recommended

 

4 Readers Commented

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  1. Suzette Norris on March 24, 2015

    This restaurant is a gem on many fronts. The food and service are fantastic. One point the summary above left out is that owner/Chef Stephen Huth rode out the Katrina disaster and was one of the first neighborhood restaurants to re-open in Metairie after the flood. His dedication to cuisine and to his loyal customers is top notch. Would recommend to resident and tourist alike.

  2. Ell on March 17, 2016

    We went to Cypress for our 42nd anniversary last night. We were seated in the dining room adjacent to Transcontinental Blvd. The noise coming from the other diners was on par with R&O’s and old Gee and Lil’s on Haynes Blvd. The dinner was delicious, although your “Special Attributes of unusually large servings was not the case. I find the serving size not up to what you are served at the Quarter View on Clearview Pkwy.

  3. Wallace H. Paletou on February 17, 2017

    Excellent, Outstanding. One of t he best meals we have had in a long time!!

  4. Jim Thompson on April 27, 2017

    One of my favorites for several reasons. I am not a fan of the new style of cooking whether you call it neuvo or fusion or what. I like classic taste and this is what you find here and it is delicious. The attitude and service although reserved lends itself to an enjoyable dinner in all respects with the exception of decor and ambience both of which I find average. Last but not least is value which is slightly above average although I do not think the servings are as generous as you describe–if only I were a food critic that might be different. Summary: Classic taste, good service, and good value

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