4 Fleur
EntreePrice-34
BreakfastNo Breakfast SundayNo Breakfast MondayNo Breakfast TuesdayNo Breakfast WednesdayNo Breakfast ThursdayNo Breakfast FridayNo Breakfast Saturday
LunchNo Lunch SundayNo Lunch MondayNo Lunch TuesdayNo Lunch WednesdayNo Lunch ThursdayNo Lunch FridayNo Lunch Saturday
DinnerDinner SundayDinner MondayDinner TuesdayDinner WednesdayDinner ThursdayDinner FridayDinner Saturday

Delmonico

Uptown 1: Garden District & Environs: 1300 St Charles Ave. 504-525-4937. Map.
Dressy.
AE DC DS MC V
Website

ANECDOTES AND ANALYSIS
Delmonico is the best restaurant directly on a Mardi Gras parade route–even though it’s closed on Fat Tuesday and Monday. The rest of the year, it’s my kind of restaurant. Its menu is dominated by classic French-Creole dishes updated with current ingredients and kitchen techniques. They play the same game with the dining rooms, enclosed in a century-old building that nevertheless has a decidedly contemporary feel.

If you happen to find yourself at Delmonico in the week before Mardi Gras, you will enjoy a half a great dinner, go outside to watch the parade, then come back in for dessert and after-dinner libations. Great fun.

Charcuterie board at Emeril's Delmonico.

Charcuterie board at Emeril’s Delmonico.

WHY IT’S NOTEWORTHY
If your taste runs to the more traditional side of Chef Emeril Lagasse’s culinary provinces, you may prefer Delmonico to Emeril’s flagship restaurant. While the menus are different, the general style is the same. So are the customers: When full, Emeril’s directs its overflow to Delmonico. The food at Del’s (the house nickname for the place) has a non-ironic retro quality that fits right into the restaurant. Delmonico’s has had its highs and lows, and always seems to be in a state of flux. More than a few locals call it their favorite of Emeril’s three New Orleans establishments.

Crabmeat Remick.

Crabmeat Remick.

WHAT’S GOOD
After an unsuccessful some years ago with a menu of mostly small plates, Del’s has returned to a more traditional, mostly Creole offering, orchestrated by Chef de Cuisine Tony Scanio. Although Emeril was one of the first chefs here to put heavy emphasis on the origins of its ingredients–you are told where everything came from, for instance–the kitchen does know how to cook, and isn’t afraid to revive a great old dish. For a time, Delmonico leaned heavily in the steakhouse direction. It still buys prime beef and dry-ages a lot of it in house, this has become less of a specialty in recent years. The wine list keeps up with the one at Emeril’s flagship restaurant in its distinction.

Delmonico-Ext

BACKSTORY
Delmonico turned 100 the year before Emeril Lagasse bought it in 1998. Founder Anthony Commander–whose brother founded the restaurant of the same name–came to New Orleans after working in Delmonico in New York City. There never was a connection between that restaurant and this, but the name was synonymous with grand dining in the 1800s, and Commander borrowed it. For most of its pre-Emeril history, Delmonico was managed by the La Franca family. Their restaurant was in the same category with Galatoire’s and Arnaud’s, but because it was well away from the French Quarter, it was less formal and expensive. People who remember dining in the old Delmonico knew it as an old-fashioned, excellent Creole restaurant run by the hospitable Angie Brown and Rose Dietrich, whose father made the restaurant what it was. When Emeril bought it, he performed a deep and expensive renovation, much of which had to be done all over again after Katrina, for as much money.

In the bar at Delmonico.

In the bar at Delmonico.

DINING ROOM
The front dining room’s lofty ceilings create rich spaces, and its windows allow diners to keep track of the streetcars. On the other side of a large open door are more tables, the bar, and a piano–sometimes with a pianist. The Cornstalk Room is the most atmospheric room in the house, one section of it skylit. (You pass through the kitchen to get to it.) The service staff is a bit less formal and skillful than before the storm, but that’s true all over these days. On this other hand, Delmonico remains literally a white-tablecloth restaurant. Ron Jones plays a very fine piano and sings in a bluesy way in the bar on weekends.

REVIEWER’S NOTEPAD
More ruminations appear in our Dining Diary. Click on any of the dates below for those reports, each written a few days after a meal at Delmonico.
1/22/2016 ~

FULL ONLINE MENU

BEST DISHES
The menu undergoes sweeping changes with the seasons, but the style remains steady. The checkmarks ✔ indicate recommended dishes

Starters
✔ House made charcuterie
Artisanal cheese board
✔ Mussels and fries
Chaurice sausage, ancho chile broth, lemon aioli
Stuffed mirliton with shrimp and crabmeat, Chisesi ham, and roasted red pepper butter
✔ Fried oysters bordelaise, fettuccine, sun dried tomatoes, parmesan, garlic butter
✔ ✔ Emeril’s barbecue shrimp, baked grits cake
✔ ✔ Crispy pork cheek, dirty rice, scallions
Stuffed boudin balls, Louisiana cane pepper jelly
✔ Jumbo lump crabmeat Remick, bacon, parmesan, toasted French bread
Sweet basil gnocchi, Italian sausage, artichoke, pecorino, lemon, oregano breadcrumbs
✔ Baked oysters Rockefeller and Bbienville
Conch beignet, avocado remoulade, red onion, cilantro, habenero gastrique
Gumbo
✔ Turtle soup with sherry
Mixed lettuce salad, tomato, cucumber, fresh herb vinaigrette
Romaine-heart Caesar salad, boiled egg, anchovy, parmesan
✔ Iceberg lettuce wedge, bacon, grape tomato, croutons, buttermilk dressing
✔ New Orleans “Guappo” salad, salami, olive salad, aged provolone, young arugula, romaine, extra virgin olive oil
Roasted beet salad, arugula, satsuma, spiced dates, pistachio crème fraîche

New York strip steak, dry-aged.

New York strip steak, dry-aged.

Entrées
✔ Glazed Duroc pork chop, red beana and rice congri, lime mojo
Louisiana Drumfish meuniere, artichoke, fingerling potatoes, local blue crabmeat, arugula, grape tomatoes
Crisp duck leg confit, sweet potato and pecan waffle, braised collard greens, Steen’s cane jus
Gulf shrimp Creole, okra and rice, plantain fritters
Panneèd swordfish, pancetta, asparagus and shiitake mushroom risotto, fennel, roasted tomato vinaigrette
Creole braised lamb shank, roasted poblano grits, mirliton
Pan roasted salmon, andouille, mustard greens, black eyed peas, green tomato chow chow
✔ Chicken breast Clemenceau (ham, portobello mushrooms, sugar snap peas, brabant potatoes, béarnaise sauce)
✔ Gulf fish of the day, shrimp, grilled vegetables, mirliton pickle, bouillabaisse broth
✔ Steaks with herb butter, Emeril’s worcestershire, béarnaise and chimichurri sauces:
✔ Shoulder filet
Filet tenderloin
✔ New York strip, dry-aged 14 days
Bone-in ribeye, dry-aged 21 days

Sides
Slow cooked collard greens, pickled pork, Steen’s cane vinegar
✔ Rum-glazed yams
Candied pecans
✔ Caramelized brussels sprouts, guanciale
Whipped Yukon Gold potatoes
Black-eye peas and mustard greens
Baked macaroni and cheese
✔ Mushrooms bordelaise
Garlic butter, lemon
✔ French fries
Lemon aioli
Green beans amandine
Poblano and cheddar grits

Dessert
Salted caramel doberge cake
Apple-cranberry compote, brown butter crumble
From the oven chocolate chip cookies, ice cold vanilla milk
Warm sweet potato and bacon handpies
Vanilla ice cream, brown butter icing, sweet potato – bourbon sauce
Daily ice cream selection
Daily sorbet selection
Turtle sundae
✔ Dulce de leche ice cream, pecan chocolate brownie crumble, chocolate sauce
✔ Hummingbird bread pudding, cream cheese sauce, banana ice cream, toasted pecans
King cake doughnuts, strawberry compote, toasted walnuts
Coconut-chocolate cream pie
✔ Traditional Bananas Foster, vanilla bean ice cream, salted pecans, prepared tableside
Assortment of cheeses

Starters
✔ House made charcuterie
Artisanal cheese board
✔ Mussels and fries
Chaurice sausage, ancho chile broth, lemon aioli
Stuffed mirliton with shrimp and crabmeat, Chisesi ham, and roasted red pepper butter
✔ Fried oysters bordelaise, fettuccine, sun dried tomatoes, parmesan, garlic butter
✔ ✔ Emeril’s barbecue shrimp, baked grits cake
✔ ✔ Crispy pork cheek, dirty rice, scallions
Stuffed boudin balls, Louisiana cane pepper jelly
✔ Jumbo lump crabmeat Remick, bacon, parmesan, toasted French bread
Sweet basil gnocchi, Italian sausage, artichoke, pecorino, lemon, oregano breadcrumbs
✔ Baked oysters Rockefeller and Bbienville
Conch beignet, avocado remoulade, red onion, cilantro, habenero gastrique
Gumbo
✔ Turtle soup with sherry
Mixed lettuce salad, tomato, cucumber, fresh herb vinaigrette
Romaine-heart Caesar salad, boiled egg, anchovy, parmesan
✔ Iceberg lettuce wedge, bacon, grape tomato, croutons, buttermilk dressing
✔ New Orleans “Guappo” salad, salami, olive salad, aged provolone, young arugula, romaine, extra virgin olive oil
Roasted beet salad, arugula, satsuma, spiced dates, pistachio crème fraîche

Entrées
✔ Glazed Duroc pork chop, red beana and rice congri, lime mojo
Louisiana Drumfish meuniere, artichoke, fingerling potatoes, local blue crabmeat, arugula, grape tomatoes
Crisp duck leg confit, sweet potato and pecan waffle, braised collard greens, Steen’s cane jus
Gulf shrimp Creole, okra and rice, plantain fritters
Panneèd swordfish, pancetta, asparagus and shiitake mushroom risotto, fennel, roasted tomato vinaigrette
Creole braised lamb shank, roasted poblano grits, mirliton
Pan roasted salmon, andouille, mustard greens, black eyed peas, green tomato chow chow
✔ Chicken breast Clemenceau (ham, portobello mushrooms, sugar snap peas, brabant potatoes, béarnaise sauce)
✔ Gulf fish of the day, shrimp, grilled vegetables, mirliton pickle, bouillabaisse broth
✔ Steaks with herb butter, Emeril’s worcestershire, béarnaise and chimichurri sauces:
✔ Shoulder filet
Filet tenderloin
✔ New York strip, dry-aged 14 days
Bone-in ribeye, dry-aged 21 days

Sides
Slow cooked collard greens, pickled pork, Steen’s cane vinegar
✔ Rum-glazed yams
Candied pecans
✔ Caramelized brussels sprouts, guanciale
Whipped Yukon Gold potatoes
Black-eye peas and mustard greens
Baked macaroni and cheese
✔ Mushrooms bordelaise
Garlic butter, lemon
✔ French fries
Lemon aioli
Green beans amandine
Poblano and cheddar grits

Dessert
Salted caramel doberge cake
Apple-cranberry compote, brown butter crumble
From the oven chocolate chip cookies, ice cold vanilla milk
Warm sweet potato and bacon handpies
Vanilla ice cream, brown butter icing, sweet potato – bourbon sauce
Daily ice cream selection
Daily sorbet selection
Turtle sundae
✔ Dulce de leche ice cream, pecan chocolate brownie crumble, chocolate sauce
✔ Hummingbird bread pudding, cream cheese sauce, banana ice cream, toasted pecans
King cake doughnuts, strawberry compote, toasted walnuts
Coconut-chocolate cream pie
✔ Traditional Bananas Foster, vanilla bean ice cream, salted pecans, prepared tableside
Assortment of cheeses

FOR BEST RESULTS
Avoid busy times in the city (holidays, big conventions, etc.). Emeril’s sends its overflow here, and that sometimes overwhelms the place. Arrive early to have a great cocktail in the very appealing bar. A very solid menu plan is to build your own tasting menu out of the large appetizer department.

OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
They seem to be incapable of serving a really great cup of coffee here. That’s especially true of the espresso deprtments.

FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.

  • Dining Environment +3
  • Consistency
  • Service+2
  • Value
  • Attitude +3
  • Wine & Bar +3
  • Hipness +1
  • Local Color +2

 

SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES

  • Live music some nights
  • Romantic
  • Good view
  • Good for business meetings
  • Many private rooms
  • Open Sunday dinner
  • Open Monday dinner
  • Open some holidays
  • Historic
  • Good for children
  • Free valet parking
  • Reservations honored promptly

 

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