Three Stars
Eggs Breaux Bridge
@ Stanley

The chef-owner of Stanley is Scott Boswell, whose other restaurant Stella! is a contender for Best Restaurant in New Orleans. So he can’t just throw out ordinary food in Stanley, his sandwich-and-breakfast cafe in the Lower Pontalba. This egg dish is alarming as soon as you see it: the eggs and other ingredients are set not on an English muffin or a rusk, but on a three-inch-high section of poor boy bread, standing on end. Elevated cuisine! The eggs are poached and covered with hollandaise, with patties of boudin underneath. Back down on the plate are fried oysters and slices of incongruously ordinary ham. All the nonconformity adds nothing to the goodness of the dish, which is nevertheless no deficient in any way.

French Quarter: 547 St Ann St. 504-587-0093

No comments yet.