500BestSquareFish With Pesto Cream Sauce @ Andrea’s

Pesto–the blend of chopped basil, parsley, and garlic with Parmesan cheese, butter, and pine nuts–is most often used as a cool sauce for hot pasta. Or as a coating for birds. Chef Andrea Apuzzo has long used a creamy version of the stuff as a sauce for fish. The best such is pompano, but it works with any light-colored fish. There’s a little vermouth in there, too. I keep thinking a touch of Strega might be interesting in it.

Andrea’s. Metairie: 3100 19th St. 504-834-8583.

This is among the 500 best dishes in New Orleans area restaurants. Click here for a list of the other 499.

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