AlmanacSquare April 24, 2017

Upcoming Deliciousness

Jazz Festival–April 27-May 6
Mother’s Day–May 13

Annals Of Food Comedy

How y’all are? Today is the birthday, in 1914, of Justin Wilson, in Roseland, Louisiana (just north of Amite). He wasn’t exactly a Cajun, but that didn’t stop him from becoming the world’s best-known ambassador of Cajun culture. He picked up most of his style, speech, and stories while working along Bayou Lafourche as a young man. He first came to public attention with his comedy routines, but soon he started talking about cooking. Wilson’s pioneering television cooking shows became among the most popular of their kind. The recipes were less than brilliant, often using less than the best ingredients. But that was quite authentic. Justin Wilson died in 2001, but his TV shows are still in circulation, his many cookbooks still sell well, and his Cajun jokes are still being repeated–I gaa-rohn-tee.

Food Through History

Today in 1877, Federal troops left New Orleans, ending Reconstruction here after it made a shambles of the town. One effect of the new freedom was a burst of new restaurant openings in the next few years. Some of the more notable additions were Commander’s Palace, The Gem (a little-remembered but very important restaurant on Royal Street), La Louisiane, Victor’s (the restaurant that evolved into Galatoire’s), and Madame Begue’s.

Edible Dictionary

back bacon, n.–The Canadian name for what Americans call Canadian bacon. It’s made by curing and smoking pork loin (or, sometimes, pork round) in the same way that a ham would be. It’s much more like ham than it is like the more common strips of pork-belly bacon. It has a milder flavor and much less fat. It’s used mostly for making sandwiches. It was once popular as a topping for pizza, but that use has been fading in recent years.

Annals Of Soft Drinks

Today in 1833 two inventors–Jacob Ebert and George Dulty–patented the soda fountain. The bubbles lifted the water and carbonated it at the same time. The new drink was well received by the public, as the inventors suspected they would. Water with gas bubbles was already a big deal in Europe. By the end of the 1800s, soda fountains were everywhere.

Today’s Flavor

This is National Prosciutto Day. Prosciutto is dry-cured ham. Dry-curing takes much longer, and creates a much more intense flavor, than the brine curing more commonly applied to hams. To make prosciutto, salt is applied to the outside of skinned pig legs, usually with the bones still inside, and hung up to dry for as much as a year. In the old days, that was done outdoors. Now prosciutto makers have big warehouses whose walls allow free movement of air from outside through the hanging hams. The word derives from a Latin word that means “all dried out,” which it is after all that time.

The best prosciutto comes from Parma and San Daniele in Italy, but much prosciutto is made in this country. Its flavor is very intense; it should be sliced as thin as possible, and used sparingly. Classic uses of prosciutto include wrapping melon slices with it, stuffing it into veal and poultry concoctions, and standing alone as antipasto.

The Old Kitchen Sage Sez:

A prosciutto made from the left leg of the pig tastes better than one from the right leg, which is tougher. Unless the pig is a southhoof.

Deft Dining Rule #452

It is impossible to slice prosciutto too thin.

Gourmet Gazetteer

Fry, Arizona is in the mountainous, high desert plains in the southern part of the state, just north of the Mexican border. Fry began as a station stop on a now-abandoned railroad. But it grew because of Fort Huachuca, a famous frontier-era Army base that dealt with Cochise, Geronimo, and the Mexican Revolution. Fry has been absorbed by the growth of Sierra Vista, a southern Arizona boomtown. Numerous restaurants line Fry Avenue, ranging from La Casita Mexican Restaurant to Peacock Vietnamese Cuisine.

Annals Of Chocolate

Britons breathed a sigh of relief today when World War II chocolate rationing finally ended in 1949. Until then, they had to make do with hollow bunnies made from a mixture of toothpaste and coffee.

Food And Space

The Hubble Space Telescope was launched today in 1990. Its magnification was so acute (once they got it focused, anyway) that it could actually detect an amuse-bouche on a restaurant table from space.

Food Namesakes

Former Connecticut congressman Charles Bakewell was born today in 1867. . . William I of Orange, who ran the Low Countries for a time on behalf of Spain, was born today in 1533. . . Kristie Krabe, Broadway actress, was born today in 1974.

Words To Eat By

“So to church, and staid out the sermon, and then with my aunt Wight, my wife, and Pall and I to her house by coach, and there staid and supped upon a Westphalia ham, and so home and to bed.”–Samuel Pepys.

Words To Drink By

“Ho! Ho! Ho! To the bottle I go
To heal my heart and drown my woe
Rain may fall, and wind may blow
And many miles be still to go
But under a tall tree will I lie
And let the clouds go sailing by
―J.R.R. Tolkien