Four Stars
Frogs’ Legs
@ Herbsaint

I keep hoping for a renaissance of frogs’ legs. But every time one restaurant adds them to the menu, another one removes it. The most consistent–and best–restaurants for this stereotypically French dish is Herbsaint, Donald Link’s French-inspired but original bistro. The legs are the small, tender ones, complete from hip joint to feet. They’re dusted with a little flour (I think) and fried. After tossing them with more than a little butter and fresh herbs, the chef stacks them, alternating the direction of each layer. The presentation is almost as good as the flavor, which is simply finger-licking good. A fantastic appetizer. A double order with the house’s fresh-cut pommes frites wouldn’t be bad, either.

CBD: 701 St. Charles Ave.. 504-524-4114

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