500BestSquareEvery Man a King Fish (Grilled Fish On A Brick Of Salt And A Cedar Plank). @ Kingfish

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Kingfish is named for Huey P. Long, an association that seems to free both the kitchen and dining room staffs to be daring to the point of amazement. This dish has been a signature since the place opened in 2013. This dish starts with grilled fish (it was pompano all the times I’ve had it) on a solid brick of Himalayan salt. A roasted pecan butter and red onion marmalade finish the flavor ensemble. All that is set atop a a cedar plank, which in turn rests on a napkin. No plate. (No tablecloth, either, but who has those anymore?) Yes, most of this is atmosphere. But the fish and its edible accoutrements are delicious and fresh, and that’s all I need to be happy at the table.

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Kingfish. French Quarter: 337 Chartres St. 504-598-5005.

This is among the 500 best dishes in New Orleans area restaurants. Click here for a list of the other 499.

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