500BestSquareGrilled Redfish With White Wine Herb Sauce @ DiMartino’s

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DiMartino’s began in 1975 as a muffuletta specialist, in a fast-food way. Not a likely spot to find a consistently well-prepared fresh fish dish. But there it is, from a menu that has grown to the sophistication and goodness of a neighborhood Italian cafe, with pasta, veal, chicken, and seafood dishes along with the sandwiches. (Unfortunately, you still order at the counter, and a server brings it out.) The menu offers two kinds of grilled fish. The cheaper generic one is made with tilapia. (Boo, hiss.) The other one–six or seven dollars more–is fresh redfish. The fillet is cooked to order and sloshed with a buttery, herbal sauce. They serve this with roasted potatoes, but on request you can get pasta. It comes with a good, olive-studded salad.

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DiMartino’s. Covington: 700 S Tyler St. 985-276-6460.

Gretna: 1788 Carol Sue Ave. 504-392-7589.
Algiers: 3900 General De Gaulle Dr. 504-367-0227.This is among the 500 best dishes in New Orleans area restaurants. Click here for a list of the other 499.

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