Whoever came up with the idea of pairing beets with lump crabmeat was a) someone who could think counter-intuitively, because the last thing you’d think of doing with expensive crabmeat is to stain it with beet juice, and 2) a genius of taste. The two flavors are remarkable together. The most interesting version is put out as an appetizer at La Provence. Like everything else there, the beets come from a local farm, where they grow a few different heirloom varieties of beets. Not all are red. They look as good as they taste.