Metairie 2: Orleans Line To Houma Blvd: 3205 Edenborn Ave. 504-455-5730. Map.
AE DS MC V
WHY IT’S NOTEWORTHY
Kanno calls itself a California-style sushi bar, whatever that means. Its regular customers will tell you that it’s obviously the best sushi bar in the city. I find it a more or less standard Japanese menu, executed well, with less emphasis on the visual than in the best local sushi bars, with less variety but better freshness than average.
The temperature, freshness, moisture content, and cut of the sushi and sashimi is beyond reproach. The specials are particularly well turned out. The chef excels particularly in his hot dishes. The chef’s special dinner shows this off well. It’s described only as five courses with a homemade dessert. The chef asks whether you have any allergies or preferences, then he goes to work on fascinating plates.
Chef-owner Hidetoshi Suzuki–whom the regulars call “Elvis”–opened this place in 2002 in a space formerly occupied by less good sushi bars and other restaurants. (A long time ago, it was the first location of Bennachin, the city’s first African restaurant.) Elvis is a native of Osaka and trained under some well-known sushi masters.
The restaurant is in the middle of an old strip mall, dead center in what we call less and less often Fat City, around the corner from Drago’s. The place is in need of interior repairs, and its dining room is rather stark. The sushi bar is almost always full.
Clear soup (peppery).
»Panko-crusted soft-shell crab.
Spicy soft-shell crab soup.
»Beef gyoza dumplings.
Japanese barbecue salmon.
»Sushi and sashimi specials.
Seafood dynamite dinner (a hot sort of casserole).
California combo (teriyaki and sushi rolls).
»Chef’s choice special dinner.
FOR BEST RESULTS
The chef’s special dinner is very interesting. Don’t work up a big appetite for it: it’s not overwhelming in size. Don’t bother ordering sushi from the menu; ask the chef what’s good, and get what he says.
OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
A repair and cleanup crew needs to spend some time with the premises, which are below my comfort level.
FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.
- Dining Environment -2
- Consistency +1
- Value +1
- Attitude +1
- Wine & Bar
- Hipness +1
- Local Color
- Open all afternoon
- Quick, good meal
- Easy, nearby parking
ANECDOTES AND ANALYSIS
The regulars of this restaurant are extremely enthusiastic about it, and many claim that this is the city’s best sushi bar. It is not.