500BestSquareMoo Shu Pork @ Five Happiness

Moo shu pork is one of a dozen or so dishes whose appearance on New Orleans Chinese menus in the early 1970s marked the beginning of a new era for that cuisine. Like many of the other new dishes, moo shu pork came from the royal Mandarin kitchens, and was more complex than what we had tasted before. The sauce involves a mix of restrained sweetness and spice, fleshed out with black mushrooms, root vegetables cut into thin matchsticks, and thin petals of beaten, barely set eggs. All this is spooned into thin pancakes (like very thin flour tortillas), rolled up, and eaten with the fingers. Five Happiness was one of main proponents of the new style, and their moo shu is excellent.

Five Happiness. Mid-City: 3605 S Carrollton. 504-482-3935.

This is among the 500 best dishes in New Orleans area restaurants. Click here for a list of the other 499.

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