Oyster-Artichoke Soup @ Mandina’s
Oysters and artichokes go so well together that it’s no wonder a soup made from them is right up there with gumbo and turtle soup among our favorite potages. The original version as we know it was created by Chef Warren Leruth at his legendary, extinct restaurant in Gretna. It was widely copied around town then and now. Nobody does a better version of it than Mandina’s. I doubt they use fresh artichokes (neither did Leruth), but the flavor is all there. The soup has a great, thick texture (from a blond roux–no cream) and just the right herbal component. And always more and bigger oysters than you expect. I prefer it not only to other such recipes around town, but also to Mandina’s vaunted turtle soup.
Mandina’s. Mid-City: 3800 Canal. 504-482-9179.
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