Pat Gallagher has a long record of serving straightforward, food which, but dint of the excellence of the ingredients, becomes exciting. These baked oysters, served on the shell in the time-honored manner, are described as “oysters Rockefeller with a Southwestern flavor.” That’s not quite it; the topping is too rich with cheese and cream to remind me much of the Rockefeller taste. But the bottom layer does carry that near-Mexican aspect, smoky and spicy with tasso. And they’re so huge that two is enough for an appetizer. Of course, Pat serves you six.
Gallagher’s Grill. Covington: 509 S Tyler. 985-892-9992.
We find this dish to be among the 500 best in New Orleans area restaurants.