500BestSquarePate Maison @ La Provence

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During the years immediately following John Besh’s purchase of La Provence from his mentor Chris Kerageorgiou, the chefs who came and went kept trying to distance themselves from Chris’s old house pate. made mostly of chicken livers and butter, it came to the table complimentary. It wasn’t a brilliant pate, but it sure was good, and it’s hard to argue with free. The customers, however, would not hear of the departure of the pate, no matter how good the replacement was. Current chef Erik Loos went along and restored the stuff to tables. Still free. But (and you didn’t hear this from me) he sometimes works duck liver into the batch. Hope you’ll be there that day.

A few weeks ago John Besh sold La Provence to a regular customer who owns a few restaurants in Texas. One of the first promises he made when he appeared on my radio show a few weeks ago was that the pate will remain inviolate, and it will continue to be served free. What a relief! I think I’ll go there for Father’s Day.

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La Provence. Lacombe: 25020 US 190. 985-626-7662.

This is among the 500 best dishes in New Orleans area restaurants. Click here for a list of the other 499.

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