500BestSquarePecan-Crusted Fish With Crabmeat Meuniere @ Dick & Jenny’s

As is true with many New Orleans dishes, those named “meuniere” are made in more ways than one. Two, in this case. The version they do at Dick and Jenny’s is the one originally created at Arnaud’s, with a thick, light brown sauce with a buttery, lemony flavor and a hint of stock. It also takes an idea from Commander’s Palace. In the 1970s, Chef Paul Prudhomme replaced the trout amandine everybody in town served with a more distinctly local fish dish using pecans. It was a tremendous hit and widely copied. This is the best version I’ve found around town, generous with the fresh local fish, and an exciting, big-flavored sauce. And, like everything else at this rightly popular restaurant, the price is a bargain.

Dick & Jenny’s. Uptown: 4501 Tchoupitoulas. 504-894-9880.

This is among the 500 best dishes in New Orleans area restaurants. Click here for a list of the other 499.

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