500BestSquareRack of Lamb @ Commander’s Palace

Only a few restaurants in New Orleans serve a rack of lamb anymore. Fewer still serve American lamb, a far better (and much more expensive) product than the smaller racks from New Zealand (which are pretty good, too). But no restaurant I know buys better quality lamb than does Commander’s. They have a source in Colorado that send them the prettiest, most flavorful lamb I know of. And then, casting aside the cutting-edge style that characterizes Commander’s food these days, they season the rack generously with Creole seasonings and Creole mustard, and blasts it on the hottest part of their hickory wood-burning grill. The sauce is also straightforward, a natural, smoky, full-flavored jus. They cook it whole and slice it into thick chops before sending it out, so it’s easy to dissect. A magnificent repast.

Commander’s Palace. Garden District: 1403 Washington Ave.. 504-899-8221.

This is among the 500 best dishes in New Orleans area restaurants. Click here for a list of the other 499.

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