Bear's Grill & Spirits
Anecdotes & Analysis
I've looked for years, and the only really good, consistent poor boy joint I've found is Bear's, on the old main street through Covington. It's a converted convenience store, which is the first good sign--I never trust a poor boy place that was built for the purpose. Bear's offers the entire range of poor boy sandwiches, including a few that engender relatively little interest to my palate but some body must like. The acid test, of course, is the roast beef, which is perfect: the beef is thinly sliced and tender (and cooked on the premises). The gravy is flavorful not too thick, and applied in the right amounts. And the bread is fresh. They also make a good seafood poor boy, and will not shrink back from that hard-to-find wonder, the broiled ham and cheese. Don't come in a hurry; Bear's is always busy, and they make the sandwiches carefully to order. They're worth the wait.
Why It's Essential
For a few years, the only poor boy sandwich worth crossing Lake Pontchartrain to try was made by three locations of Bear's in Mandeville, Slidell, and Covington. That is no longer true, but only because a new Bear's has opened in Old Metairie. Roast beef is king, sliced thinly and piled thickly, with warm French bread. They also make all the other poor boy standards, but it's the roast beef that will make a mark in your taste memory.
There has been a Bear's on the North Shore for at least thirty years. The one in Covington--whose menu is a bit different from that of the others--is the original. It's owned by the brother of the owner of the ones in Mandeville, Slidell, and Metairie.
The Covington shop is smaller and more utilitarian than the others, although you can't call any of them fancy. (Who could trust a fancy poor boy joint, anyway?) They all have in common locations that you have to go looking for in order to find.
For Best Results
If you wonder whether you've ordered enough food, the answer is that you've ordered too much. The place can get very busy in the noon hour and early evenings.
Bear's Grill & SpiritsJapan, 〒223-0062 Kanagawa, Yokohama, Kohoku Ward, Hiyoshihonchō, 1-chōme−19−２１ 日吉スカイビル1F