500BestSquareRoast Duck Poor Boy @ Crabby Jack’s

DishStars-4
A brilliant original idea for the venerable poor-boy category, this starts with slowly-roasted ducks whose meat is falling off the bones. With those bones, Jack Leonardi’s cooks make a stock, and from that a thickened brown gravy.

Jack Leonardi making his signature dish at the Po-Boy Festival.

Jack Leonardi making his signature dish at the Po-Boy Festival.

From that point on, everything is like a roast beef poor boy: fresh French bread, lettuce and tomatoes, tender meat that pulls apart into shreds, enough gravy to keep the whole thing on the sloppy side. Except that instead of a beef taste, it’s a duck taste. It’s such a natural that it’s a wonder nobody ever thought of it before. It would be even more popular were there not so many other good poor boys at this, the ultra-casual satellite of the very casual Jacques-Imo’s on Oak Street.

Crabby Jack’s. Jefferson: 428 Jefferson Hwy.. 504-833-2722.

This is among the 500 best dishes in New Orleans area restaurants. Click here for a list of the other 499.

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