500BestSquareRoast Duck With Black Cherries @ Michael’s

Roast duck, served by the half with a crisp skin and a sauce combining duck stock and something sweet, used to be a given in any white-tablecloth restaurant. Grilled duck breasts and confit duck legs have largely taken over, leaving perhaps fewer than a dozen restaurants with the old style. Slidell Chef Michael Fredric takes yet another step back, reviving the classic canard Montmorency, named for France’s greatest cherry-growing district. The sauce is just a little sweet, but the big, soft black cherries are there to pop into your mouth to complete the flavor ensemble.

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Michael’s. Slidell: 4820 Pontchartrain Dr. 985-649-8055.

This is among the 500 best dishes in New Orleans area restaurants. Click here for a list of the other 499.

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