Four Stars
Roast Duck with Green Peppercorns
@ Andrea’s

Any restaurant that serves roast duck shows a commitment to its diners. Duck requires more attention from the kitchen than most dishes, having to be roasted most of the way to doneness in advance. Then there’s the inevitable squawk from naive diners that they’ve been served two leg quarters rather than breast and leg quarters (this is because the two look very much alike). The sauce takes a bit of thought and work, too. Chef Andrea, who claims to be able to do all things for all people, does not mind that a dish requires work. This is why he offers no fewer than four different preparations of roast duck, with sauces made from oranges, raspberries, plums, and peppercorns and cream. All are wonderful, although the peppercorn is the one that hits home for me. The duck is crispy at the skin and grandly served.

Metairie: 3100 19th Street. 504-834-8583

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