500BestSquareSteak Kew @ Trey Yuen

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Chinese restaurants have adapted to American palates for so long that it’s hard to tell what’s originally Chinese and what isn’t. I have my doubts about this dish, which Frank Wong says is genuinely Cantonese. Of the excellence of the flavor there is no doubt. They way Trey Yuen serves it–in small steaks, not cubes–takes advantage of the ribeye (and sometimes filet mignon) they use for the dish. The sauce is thick and emphatically flavorful, with hoisin sauce used to give it a vague barbecue taste. Green beans, onions, carrots and a few other vegetables full out the plate. Steak kew used to be a more common dish on Chinese menus than it is now. Nobody ever did it better than the Wong Brothers here.

Steak kew, new style.

Steak kew, new style.

Trey Yuen. Mandeville: 600 Causeway Blvd. 985-626-4476.

This is among the 500 best dishes in New Orleans area restaurants. Click here for a list of the other 499.

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