500BestSquareStuffed Crab With Angel Hair Bordelaise @ Peppermill

The rise of the crab cake–a dish almost unknown in New Orleans fifteen years ago–had a terrible effect on the traditional West End-style stuffed crab. Only a handful of restaurants still offer this great old dish, whose flavor and texture are different from those of the Maryland crab cakes we now seem to prefer. The Peppermill’s version is unusual in being made with cubes of bread soaked in crab stock (sort of how you’d start a turkey stuffing), plus the usual herbs and spices. The crabmeat goes in last, and it’s beautiful: jumbo lump, looking like miniature marshmallows stuck in the stuffing. They serve a couple of these with angel hair pasta bordelaise. That is a wonderful lunch.

Stuffed crab and angel hair bordelaise.

Stuffed crab and angel hair bordelaise.

Peppermill. Metairie: 3524 Severn Ave.. 504-455-2266.

This is among the 500 best dishes in New Orleans area restaurants. Click here for a list of the other 499.

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