WHY IT’S NOTEWORTHY
One of the two or three best Thai restaurants in the area, Sukho Thai is especially adept at its cooking of seafood. The new Uptown location is a larger, handsomer restaurant, but the Marigny regulars cling tightly to the no-corkage bring-your-own-wine policy there.
Sukho Thai’s menu includes all the dishes you’ve come to like in other Thai places, and acquits its self well with them. But the menu doesn’t stop there. They have a few unique items, and become adventuresome in their use of fish. It is also less shy than most Thai restaurants about cutting loose with the herbs and spices. Be ready for bigger flavors than you may be accustomed to.
The restaurants are named for a northern province of Thailand, and means “dawn of happiness.” The original Marigny location opened in 2004 in an old grocery store. Although a couple of other restaurants preceded Sukho Thai there, none of them have made dramatic changes in the space. The Marigny look (that the place has been there forever) is very much in place. Also permanent is the lack of a liquor license; bring your own. In 2010, the Uptown restaurant open in a bigger, more thoroughly renovated space.
Marigny: Tall ceilings, concrete floors, and big, windowed double doors make the place airier than the thick old walls might suggest. In nice weather, they open all the doors and you’re practically part of the busy Marigny sidewalk traffic. The mostly non-Asian service staff is Marigny Mellow, too. The Uptown location fits into its neighborhood well, too, with more space and a sleeker design. And they have a full bar, wine and beer there, too.
Chicken or shrimp satay
Ahi katsu roll (fried tuna roll)
»Panko softshell crab
»Tom yum soup (shrimp or fish)
»Tom kha soup (chicken, coconut milk)
»Dancing shrimp salad
Grilled beef salad
»Minty chicken salad
Green papaya salad
»Seafood glass noodle salad
»Broken net (hot and sour seafood soup)
Thai fried jasmine rice*
Pineapple fried rice*
Seafood fried rice*
Drunken fried rice*
»Hot basil stir-fry with vegetables*
»Peppery garlic stir-fry with vegetables*
»Bathing rama stir-fry, spicy peanut sauce*
»Waterfall beef or duck (seared, with herbs and salad greens)
»Eggplant lover stir-fry*
»Heavenly beef (soy reduction, coriander, cabbage)
»Red, green, yellow, Panang, or kaffir lime curry*
»Curried softshell crab
»Peppery garlic seafood
»Three-flavored whole fried fish
»Seafood clay pot
»Sizzling salmon, panang coconut curry
»Lime steamed fish
»Whiskey ginger fish
Glass noodle shrimp bake
Spicy tofu with green beans
*–Available with choice of meats, fish, or shellfish Choices differ a bit from dish to dish, and some choices incur upcharge
FOR BEST RESULTS
The Marigny restaurant is small and popular. Don’t forget to bring a bottle of wine, if only to kill time while waiting, if that happens. Become more adventuresome with your order than you would be elsewhere. The routine dishes (pad thai, for example) are better had elsewhere. Like all Thai restaurants, this one offers the choice of mild, medium, hot, and Thai hot–but all of those are hotter than they would be in other places.
OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
The noodle dishes here are not as good as the stir-fries and curries.
FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.
- Dining Environment +1
- Consistency +1
- Value +1
- Wine & Bar
- Hipness +1
- Local Color +1
- Good view
- Open Sunday lunch and dinner
- Open most holidays
- Quick, good meal
- Easy, nearby parking
- No reservations