500BestSquareGrilled Fresh Sardines @ Andrea’s

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The canned sardines we despise as a desperate measure for food during emergencies are nothing like the ones treasured in every Mediterranean country. Fresh sardines are little fish four to six inches long. They can be grilled or broiled to crispy, after which they are edible (with care, of course) without having to remove the bones or even the head. Chef Andrea Apuzzo is one of the few restaurateurs that go to the trouble of getting these little fish flown in from the Mediterranean. But it’s so big a part of St. Joseph’s Day (today) and they’re so good that he offers them if they are available in the market. The flavor is not subtle, and those who have no taste for assertive fish may not like these.

Andrea’s. Metairie : 3100 19th St. 504-834-8583.

This is among the 500 best dishes in New Orleans area restaurants. Click here for a list of the other 499.

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