500BestSquareTrout Muddy Waters @ Mondo

DishStars-4
The funky restaurant phenomenon that was Uglesich’s is gone and probably will never be back. Most of its unique dishes are gone too. But one has made a leap from beyond the grave onto at least two current restaurant menus. Trout Muddy Waters (it can be and often was made with redfish or drum) was a straightforward pan-seared fillet with an equally commonplace meuniere sauce in the Creole style. What made it different was the addition of jalapeno pepper chopped into the sauce. Susan Spicer’s version has a little bit going on beyond that, with a faint seafoody flavor from (I would guess) a bit of shrimp stock. It’s my favorite dish at her new Lakeview restaurant Mondo.

Mondo-RedfishMuddyWaters

Mondo. Lakeview: 900 Harrison Ave. 504-224-2633.

This is among the 500 best dishes in New Orleans area restaurants. Click here for a list of the other 499.

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