500BestSquareVeal Chop Tchoupitoulas @ Commander’s Palace

It’s a thick Colorado veal chop of stellar merit, grilled over a wood fire and napped with a sauce with both sweet and spicy qualities. My description is based on the Golden Age (1980s) version of the dish, which then and now is constantly in flux. Beyond that, the dish enters and leaves the menu. It is a lucky day for you when it’s on. And for me. I was there last night (July 29), and there it was. Because of the pepper level, it’s tough to make a wine pairing with this (I recommend a Sangiovese). When Commander’s second cookbook came out, it claimed that because I keep writing about the veal chop, they can’t take it off the menu. Which is one of the reasons I write about it today: to keep it going.

Commander’s Palace. Garden District: 1403 Washington Ave. 504-899-8221.

This is among the 500 best dishes in New Orleans area restaurants. Click here for a list of the other 499.

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