Metairie 3: Houma Blvd To Kenner Line: 4414 Clearview Pkwy. 504-885-4888. Map.
AE MC V
WHY IT’S NOTEWORTHY
The demand for lunch is strong around the nexus of Clearview Parkway and West Esplanade in Metairie. The nearby medical complex alone keeps a lot of quick-eats places busy. World Deli is to that neighborhood what Mother’s is to the CBD. Despite the name, it’s a deli only in the New Orleans sense. The sandwich trade is mostly in poor boys and muffulettas. A short list of salads and platters (mostly Italian and basic seafoods) and the tried-and-true daily specials completes the menu.
The muffuletta has long been the signature dish of the World Deli. But the roast beef poor boy is also very good, sliced and served with a lighter-than-average gravy. Not everybody likes this style, but I do. The several Italian dishes are served generously and are not bad, but with so many great Italian places within striking distance it doesn’t rank high.
The World Deli opened in 1980, but a previous, similar operation was there (or very near by) even before then. It is as much a catering operation than a restaurant, perhaps more so.
The building looks like an electronics parts warehouse from the outside, but it’s pleasant enough within. It has certain qualities of the Central Grocery, because it functions as much as a deli as it does a restaurant. The staff can get mechanical, especially when the place is busy.
MO: Red beans or butter beans, rice, sausage
»TU: Beef stew; Stuffed peppers
WE: Breaded pork chops, baked macaroni
TH: Pork roast
FR: Crawfish Monica; Fried seafood platter
Chicken, tuna, or egg salad
Grilled chicken salad
Meatball or Italian sausage, marinara
Veal or chicken parmesan
Baby veal cutlet
Fried shrimp, catfish or oyster
Fried chicken breast
Spaghetti and: meatballs, Italian sausage, veal or chicken parmesan
Breaded veal, creamed potatoes
»Fried catfish, shrimp, oysters or combo platters
Fried boneless chicken breast, creamed potatoes
FOR BEST RESULTS
This is a good place from which to order a bunch of sandwiches for the office.
OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
The roast beef gravy is overserved on the poor boys, and too light to create the magic that happens when thicker brown gravy meets mayo and pickles.
FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.
- Dining Environment -1
- Consistency +1
- Value +1
- Wine & Bar
- Local Color
- Good for business meetings
- Open Monday lunch
- Dinner ends early (7 p.m.)
- Open all afternoon
- Unusually large servings
- Quick, good meal
- Good for children
- Easy, nearby parking