[title type="h5"]Wednesday, September 24, 2014.
Oktoberfest On Pass Machac.[/title]
There's plenty of evidence that German people have lived in and around New Orleans for over a century and a half. But it's only this time of year that a the celebration of that culture rises into clear view. Oktoberfest is here, with more restaurants taking part than I can remember.
It was a long time that Middendorf's served nothing even vaguely resembling German food, despite its German name and forebears. "Catfish City" would have been a better name for the place. But not long after Chef Horst Pfiefer--himself a native German--bought the old (1934) place, he thought Oktoberfest would be just the thing. In years since--if he wasn't preoccupied with remediating one of the three hurricane-powered floods--it's been Oktoberfest every year.
This year's begins tonight, with the New Orleans Eat Club inaugurating five weeks of German specialties at Middendorf's. We gladly accepted that assignment four previous times. It's a perfect fit. The chef hosted the very first Eat Club dinner in 1993, when he was the boss at Bella Luna in the French Market.
Today's eating begins with a remote radio broadcast from the deck of the newest building at Middendorf's. It overlooks Pass Manchac--one of the boundaries of the historic Isle of Orleans. The Illinois Central Railroad gives us the sight and sound of both the northbound then the southbound trains they call The City Of New Orleans. It's a pleasant, not-too-warm day, and Horst joins us at length. He talks about the ordeal of taking over a cherished culinary institution without having too many people say that it's not as good as in the old days.
"We are here twelve years!" he laughs. "If they haven't gotten used to me by now, they never will." That doesn't seem to be a problem. The restaurant was well populated during the broadcast, and on weekends it a continually packed house. Indeed, they're so busy with the thin-cut fried catfish and all the other specialties that they only offer Oktoberfest on Wednesdays and Thursdays.
[caption id="attachment_43973" align="alignnone" width="480"]
Tapping into the first Oktoberfest beer barrel at Middendorf's.[/caption]
In the break between the end of the radio show and the arrival of the Eat Clubbers at five-thirty, I park myself at a table and get some diary-keeping done. That went on loinger than expected. Our guests are delayed. A big accident on the I-10--over which most of people had to travel to get to Middendorf's--has traffic backed up for miles.
Those who manage to get here more or less on time (which is to say an hour late) are around for the tapping of a keg of Oktoberfest beer made by the Abita Brewing Company. I live about two miles from there. I could have rolled out the barrel for them.
[caption id="attachment_43974" align="alignnone" width="480"]
A plate of fried seafood before the Oktoberfesting begins.[/caption]
Then the fried catfish, oysters and soft-shell crabs issue forth from the kitchen. Although this is a German dinner, it's too much to ask people not to sate their hunger for Middendorf's signatures. Crab claws, crab cakes, and boiled shrimp are also in the offing. In past years, we had a skiff filled with boiled crabs and shrimp, oysters on the half shell, and more. That was too good a deal back then, but those who remember it are put off by the boat's absence. Explanation: we only ate half of what was brought out in the early days.
Also among the passed-arround apps (remember when that word meant "small pre-dinner eats"?) are chunks of braised pork belly and some very good little bratwursts with Creole mustard. The Teutonic taste is easing its way in.
[caption id="attachment_37724" align="alignleft" width="267"]
Horst Pfiefer.[/caption]
The first course at the Oktoberfest tables is maultaschen--the Southern German analog of ravioli. These are stuffed with ground pork and very light--almost like Chinese steamed dumplings. It is topped by a little arugula salad. This is the best dish all night.
Second course was a little too coarse. It was thinly-sliced veal wrapped around a stuffing of meat, mushrooms, and herbs. Some people loved it, but I think some servings were assembled with better attention to detail than others. There was a bright spot on this plate, though: schupfnudlen, the German gnocchi, made with potatoes and flour and rolled out to the shape of two-inch-long French breads. All of this had been made by hand, including the schupfnudeln.
The dessert is wonderful and generous: slices of Black Forest cake, apple strudel, and house-made ice cream. The only element missing is Julie Council and her little red accordion, who in past years played the chicken dance and other German songs, both silly and romantic.
The party goes on later than expected, and we don't leave until after nine. Unfortunately, Mary Ann and I are in separate cars. I have become accustomed to her acting as my chauffeur. (Her idea, not mine.)
Between the ravioli and the gnocchi, we are treated to a marvelous sunset. "At Bella Luna, you saw the moon rise," Horst says. "At Middendorf's, we give you a sunset. Free!"
[title type="h5"]Middendorf's. Exit 15 off I-55, Manchac. 985-386-6666. Oktoberfest menu available on Wednesday and Thursday evenings through October. [/title]
[divider type=""]
