Sunday Brunch At Antoine’s, On The Balcony

EatingNowSquare-150x150 Two salutary changes at Antoine’s since the hurricane is the old restaurant’s opening for Sunday brunch, and the rebuilding and opening to the public of its second-floor balcony. With the weather this weekend forecast to be glorious, Antoine’s brings those two qualities together with brunch on the balcony. The classic menu at Antoine’s always had an entire section of egg dishes, including the original eggs Sardou More on this. . .

Read On...

Diary 10|24|2014: Steak And Angela. Turndown At La Boca. Rue 127’s Birthday.

My weekly series with Angela Hill, in the last hour of her show, continues. The hour flashes by much faster than any on my own program. That’s probably because I’m not responsible for the show’s momentum. Today I reel her in with steak. Steak is irresistible, and despite its association with masculine appetites–or perhaps because of it– it’s clear that a majority of women like going to the top steak places, as long as a man is paying the bill. It’s certainly true of Mary Ann. All I have to…

Read On...

Extinct: 12 Metairie Restaurants, Two With Football.

The restaurant at 3322 N. Turnbull in Metairie probably holds the record for housing the greatest number of restaurants that came and went over the years. It was built in 1968 as the home of Le Charcuterie, a spinoff of from the French Quarter’s popular La Boucherie. The owners learned a surprising truth quickly: just because a lot of people with above-average incomes were moving en masse to Metairie didn’t mean that those people would go out to dinner every night. In fact, most new Metairie people moved out there…

Read On...

Pumpkin and Pecan Bread Pudding

RecipeSquare-150x150 This is no ordinary bread pudding. Not only does it have the fall flavors of pumpkin and pecan, but it’s quite rich and is best served not by scooping into bowls, but by slicing like a cake and serving elegantly on plates. Recipe details. . .

Read On...

Green Salad With Pumpkin Seed Brittle @ Restaurant August

500BestSquare Not many dinner salads show up on this list, but it figures that one of them would come from Restaurant August. John Besh and his chefs give as much attention to the little courses as to the big ones. This starts out with organically-grown greens from local farmers. The blue cheese sprinkled thereupon are from somewhat father away–Point Reyes, just north of San Francisco. I don’t know where the pumpkins were grown, but they supply seeds for a brittle that rests on top. Pumpkin seed oil. . . More about this dish. . .

Read On...

October 31 (Halloween) In Eating

AlmanacSquare It’s All Hallows Eve, the night before All Saints Day. An old, old holiday that dates back to the pagan Celts, perhaps before the time of Christ. The food connections now mostly involve candy, but. . . The largest group of current New Orleans restaurant customers are from the first generation never really forced to grow up–the Baby Boomers. We didn’t get over Halloween, and so many of us go out in search of some pleasure to replace the bag of candy we still, down deep inside, feel should be coming our way today. That puts us in restaurants. . . More to come. . .

Read On...

Extra Halloween Food Funnies. ;-)

FoodFunniesSquare

Halloween Food Toon #1: Zombies Go Out To Dinner

And although lots of chefs have gone to serving more organ meats, this one hasn’t become popular quite yet. Maybe Monday night.

Click here for the cartoon.

Read On...

Wine Tasting Series At Windsor Court

Funny. Just a couple of days ago I reported on a wine tasting at the Windsor Court, held by a group of winelovers who I know from a series of wine tastings many years ago. And now in the mail I hear about a similar series hosted by the sommelier of the Windsor Court Grill Room, John Mitchell. The first of these is Tuesday, November 4 at 7 p.m. The subject will be the major producers of wine in California, as well as some of the less well known wineries….

Read On...

Diary 10|30|2014: Slidell Pizza Emigrant To Mandeville.

DiningDiarySquare-150x150 What with all the cutting-edge wood-burning-oven pizzerias, advances in standard New York-style pizza locally have gone unnoticed. One of the best such restaurants was hidden for years in a little storefront in Slidell. That edition of Neely’s would not have struck you as a promising source of great pie, but it was. More to come. . .

Read On...

Marti’s. French Quarter: 1041 Dumaine. 504-522-5478.

FleurDeLis-4-Small Even though the excellent Peristyle took over the space for a good while, the idea of a reborn Marti’s kept floating around. It finally came to ground in 2013, right about where it would be if it and Marti had never left. More to come. . .

Read On...

Spanish Potato Tortilla

RecipeSquare-150x150 In Spain, a tortilla is a chunky potato pancake, served not as a base for other ingredients, but all but itself, usually as an initial course in a meal. It’s so much better than it sounds that it’s underrated even in Spanish eateries. Yet, it’s not hard to make–although it takes several hours, most of which is taken up waiting. Recipe details. . .

Read On...

Tagliatelle Alla Romagnola @ Ristorante da Piero

500BestSquare The style of the food at Piero Cenni’s underpatronized restaurant in Old Town Kenner is that of the Romagna region, centered of Bologna. There they loves their meats, and everything from the base of a dish to the sauce is highly savory. This is one of several examples of that in the pasta department. The wide fettuccine comes out with a hearty red sauce with cooked-down prosciutto and peas. It’s best as More about this dish. . .

Read On...

October 30 In Eating

AlmanacSquare This is Cochon de Lait Day. Cochon de lait is a small pig, still suckling its mother’s milk (hence the name). It’s roasted whole over an open fire. It’s a mainstay of festivals at this time of year throughout Southeast Louisiana. My direct experience with it came from roasting them at Boy Scout campouts. One of the other dads had rigged up a rotisserie, and the forty-pound pig roasted on it from eight in the morning until about five in the afternoon. What came out was eminently tender, smoky, and. . . More to come. . .

Read On...

Coffeeshop Proliferation Changes Halloween. ;-)

FoodFunniesSquare

The Coffeeshop Proliferation Changes Halloween.

Mainly, if affects the vampires out that night. It seems that morning never comes.

Click here for the cartoon.

Read On...

Diary 10|20|2014: Some Memorable Wines At The Windsor Court.

DiningDiarySquare-150x150 That brings me tonight to the long table just outside the Windsor Court Grill Room’s wine cellar, where I am joined by seven other guys, five of whom I know from the Martin tastings. (Three attended my wedding.) Each of them has brought a bottle of wine. As usual, there is a theme, and if you can’t bring an example of it, you can’t take part. More to come. . .

Read On...

Lasagna–Dozen Best

CremeDeLaCremeSquare-150x150 Lasagna is not a complicated dish, but two aspects of it keep most makers from excellence. First is the amount of time it takes to make it properly. Hours. Second is the amount of cheese needed to make it distinguished. The cheese component is the most expensive part of the dish, even when it’s a beef or veal lasagna. The best versions use several different cheeses, and plenty of them. The red sauce matters, too. It needs to be thick and present in a great enough amount to flow. . . More to come. . .

Read On...

Sarma (Croatian Cabbage Rolls)

RecipeSquare-150x150 Sarma is a Croatian/Serbian version of the cabbage rolls found throughout all the Balkan countries. It is unusual in that the cabbage shows up not only as the wrapper for the meat-and-rice-filled rolls, but also as sauerkraut. That’s usually served underneath the rolls, but sometimes inside them. Recipe details. . .

Read On...

Muffuletta @ Come Back Inn

500BestSquare The restaurant’s name is memorable, and so is its muffuletta, a major specialty here. The ham, salami, and cheeses are all in the right thin sliced order and generously stratified, with a house-made olive salad and good bread. If you prefer it at room temperature (as I do), say so–they routinely heat the sandwich. More about this dish. . .

Read On...

Food Almanac, October 29

AlmanacSquare It’s not Thanksgiving, but it is Turkey Day–the national day of the modern country of Turkey. The Ottoman Empire, defeated in World War I, ceased to exist today in 1923. In its place was a republic led by Mustafa Kemal Ataturk. In the next few years, the sultanate was abolished and the country became officially secular. Turkey is now quite modern, although still unambiguously Islamic. All the cuisines we think of as Middle Eastern originally came from Turkey. the Ottoman Empire’s long influence installed the Turkish style of cooking from Greece through Israel and Egypt across to Morocco. There’s more. . .

Read On...

The Dangerous Apples Are Improving. ;-)

FoodFunniesSquare

Halloween: The Dangerous Apples Are Improving.

You can trace them right back to local producers, who use no alar or anything else you wouldn’t want your kids to eat. Except for one thing. . .

Click here for the cartoon.

Read On...