Diary 10|14|2014. Four Persons Of Interest.

DiningDiarySquare-150x150 Molly Wismeier is the director of wine for Restaurant R’Evolution. The restaurant is serving a Krug Champagne dinner tonight, and they thought Krug would be worth a few words on the radio. Indeed it does. It’s been a long time since my last taste of the high-end bubbly. It sounds good enough that Mary Ann decides to go to the dinner. She says I may be her date. More to come. . .

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How To Complain About Restaurant Problems.

FoodFAQs Q. I had lunch with a friend last week, and she treated. We got a lunch plate of fried shrimp, hush puppies, cole slaw, and some boiled potatoes. Everything was fine until I cut into one of the potatoes and saw that it was bad on the inside. The waitress never did come over and ask how everything was, and I was too embarrassed to tell my friend about it, so I didn’t say anything. How can you fix a problem like this without making your host feel you’re not enjoying the treat? Click for the answer. . . .

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That’s Amore. Metairie: 4441 West Metairie Ave. 504-454-5885.

Deep-dish pizza is controversial. You either love it or you hate it, because it makes a big statement. Taking forty-five minutes to prepare, a deep-dish pizza has a crust built more like that of a cheesecake (but not sweet) than that of a classic Neapolitan pizza. The crust fades into the background, overwhelmed by the inch-and-a-half mass of tomato sauce, cheese, meats and vegetables. It’s almost a casserole. This kind of pizza. . . More to come. . .

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Trout Eugene

RecipeSquare-150x150 It’s pan-sauteed speckled trout with a lemon butter sauce with crabmeat and shrimp. It became famous under the name trout Eugene at the Caribbean Room at the Pontchartrain Hotel. I have never discovered who Eugene was, but I’ll bet he was a waiter who. . . Recipe details. . .

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Raw Oysters On The Half Shell @ Red Fish Grill

500BestSquare The four blocks radiating from the corner of Boubon and Iberville deserves the nickname Oyster Square. Here is the densest concentration of oyster bars in the city, ranging from the ancient Acme and Felix’s to the more modern Bourbon House and Red Fish Grill. The latter is the least famous of the group, but my pick as the best. The Red Fish serves P&J oysters exclusively. Even during the stress caused indirectly by the oil spill of 2010, P&J has kept its standards up enough that it’s the best-known brand of oysters you can find. The cool weather brings better oysters still. More about this dish. . .

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October 21 In eating

AlmanacSquare This is Apple Day in England, and we see no reason why we shouldn’t adopt the observance in this country too. Apples are being harvested right now throughout the Northern Hemisphere. And, as always, avidly eaten. Apples originated in Central Asia, in the area where Kazakhstan and China meet. They spread widely, with the tremendous assistance of humans, who had to learn a new skill to take advantage of these highly edible fruits. They found that seeds from an apple would not grow into trees. . . There’s more. . .

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The Stars In The Sky. ;-)

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The Stars In The Sky

Ratings of everything are everywhere.

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Belgian Beer Dinner This Wednesday, Galatoire’s 33

EatingNowSquare-150x150Belgium is an unknown to most people, but not to beer lovers. The style of brewing there is so distinctive that restaurants with good beer lists create an entire category for the beers of that marvelous country of good eating and drinking. (I’ve been there at length twice, and love it.) Galatoire’s 33 Bar & Steak–the two-year-old add-on to the city’s most revered classic restaurant, right next door–has gathered a bunch of Belgian beers for its first beer dinner ever. More on this. . .

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Diary 10|12, 13|2014: Feast With Stars. Drunken Noodles.

DiningDiarySquare-150x150 Mary Leigh and I go to dinner at Thai Spice. She tells me that she is looking for the ultimate version of pad kee mow, also known as “drunken noodles.” The reference is not to any alcohol in the dish, but its widespread use as a hangover remedy. I don’t think that’s ML’s interest in the dish. I have never known her to drink more than a beer or two. But she likes the broad noodles, the hot and sweet peppers, and some but not all of the sauces. That last item is what intrigues her, because every restaurant makes it a bit differently. She finds the Thai Spice version credible but not her favorite. . . More to come. . .

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Shrimp Remoulades–Dozen Best

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Dozen Best Shrimp Remoulades

Remoulade came from France as a blend of nearly-pureed savory vegetables, grainy mustard, and pungent radishes. Almost immediately, the Creole and French versions began to diverge. The former evolved into a deep red-orange concoction, the color coming from tomato, paprika, or both. In France, it became a mayonnaise variant, still with a sharp mustard component. Because of the continuing French influence on our food, the white kind kept being imported here. Both kinds of remoulade sauce collude with our matchless local shrimp to make one of the best imaginable appetizers. Here are my twelve favorites. You will see my own preference for the red remoulade, but please adjust to your tastes. More to come. . .

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Shrimp Remoulade With Two Sauces

RecipeSquare-150x150 I think remoulade sauce is one of the most useful and enjoyable flavoring agents that money can buy. I like it so much that it’s the very first recipe in my cookbook. There are two kinds of remoulade sauce. . . Recipe details. . .

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Stuffed Mushrooms @ Fausto’s

500BestSquare Fausto’s stuffed mushrooms are not only the most delicious I’ve ever encountered, but they come close to winning the size contest, too. An appetizer is enough for two. Despite that, they are entirely elegant, both in the lightness of the crab-lump-riddled stuffing and the lemon butter sauce.. . More about this dish. . .

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October 20 In Eating

AlmanacSquare Today is Last Chance For Rumtopf Day. Rumtopf (also spelled rhumtopf) is a traditional German holiday dessert of fresh fruit marinated in rum. In its most traditional form, it takes all year to make. But if you start today it will still be very good by Christmas, if not with the variety you could have had. Here’s how. . . There’s more. . .

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The Elixir Of Life. ;-)

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And this explains why its taste is bitter.

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Crescent City Blues & Barbecue Festival, All Weekend.

EatingNowSquare-150x150 The New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival organization has in recent years expanded its activities to produce three free music and food festivals at times of the year other than its central bash in the spring. New last year was this celebration of its namesake music and food. It’s back again in Lafayette Square, which has seen a lot of new music events lately. More on this. . .

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Diary 10|10, 11|2014: Seafood Festival. Mr. Ed’s Oysters. Big Basic Breakfast.

DiningDiarySquare-150x150 I stop anyway at Mr. Ed’s Oyster Bar. I start with too big a serving of oyster-artichoke soup. Then I have a half-and-half dozen baked oysters. Bienville and Rockefeller. Three of each would have easily been enough, because the shells and oysters were both very large, and Mr. Ed’s recipes for both of these classics too rich by a half. Not only that, but whoever baked them didn’t check the interior temperature of the oysters, most of which came out cold. Not warm–cold. More to come. . .

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Chef’s Tasting Menus–Dozen Best

CremeDeLaCremeSquare-150x150 The day I discovered dinners of many courses was the day I became a gourmet. Although the closest we came to today’s chef’s tasting menus was with the table d’hote dinners in unreconstructed restaurants like Tujague’s and Maylie’s, there was something about the idea that locked me into that style of dining. Six or so small courses, each one touching a different part of one’s appetite, seemed to bring even ordinary food up to a higher level of dining. More to come. . .

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Pear Clafoutis

RecipeSquare-150x150 A clafoutis uses a runny version of Belgian waffle batter as a matrix for fruit–classically, cherries. But you can make it with anything sweet, and few fruits would make this more appealing than ripe pears. When you make this recipe, use more pear than you think you’ll need. And although the pan will seem to contain too much batter, go with it–it won’t run over. Recipe details. . .

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Seared Duck Breast @ Boucherie

500BestSquare Boucherie has elements both of a gourmet bistro and of a barbecue joint. One thing’s for sure: they know how to create exciting dishes with red meats and birds. Their duck entree is an especially good manifestation of that theory, crisp on the outside and juicy within. From what they find in the farmer’s markets they make a succotash with a nice crunch and vividly fresh flavor. The final touch is a sort of pesto made with almonds and dried fruits. Yum, More about this dish. . .

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October 17 In Eating

AlmanacSquare Someone has proclaimed this National Pasta Day. The National Pasta Association makes no note of this, but they have a pretty good web site, describing most of the common shapes of pasta, telling you (with a cartoon logo) that you should eat pasta three times a week, and explaining why American pasta is the best there is (a falsehood). One thing we know for sure about pasta is that almost everybody likes it, and that it or some variation is now eaten almost everywhere in the world. There’s more. . .

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