What’s All This In My Plate? ;-)
~ Food Funnies

What’s All This In My Plate? ;-)

Bones And Shells Were Bad Enough.

Now this detritus. Let’s fly, let’s fly away from this dump.

Click here for the cartoon.

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### 5Star 7/30/14

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Summer Special Menu, Emeril’s; 4 Courses, $45
~ NOMenu.com

Summer Special Menu, Emeril’s; 4 Courses, $45

All three of Emeril’s New Orleans restaurant have summer specials this year. The prices are the same at each–$45 for four courses–but the menus differ entirely. Also available is a wine-pairing option for this special menu for $25. Here’s the summer menu for Emeril’s flagship restaurant on Tchoupitoulas and Julia. . . keep reading. . . .

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Diary 7|21, 22|2014:  N’Tini’s For Three. Barbecue Guys. Thai Spice.
~ July 2014

Diary 7|21, 22|2014: N’Tini’s For Three. Barbecue Guys. Thai Spice.

The burgeoning interest in barbecue around New Orleans and the rest of America has brought to the fore a basic truth about barbecue purveyors. They agree on only one thing: that they disagree about everything else. I try to get these four guys to
demonstrate this, but all I get in return is reality, no words. keep reading. . . .

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Eating Out Without Ballooning Out
~ Food FAQs

Eating Out Without Ballooning Out

I need to lose a few pounds, and know I should concentrate on eating chicken, fish, etc. However, I’m a little concerned about the sauces that come with most of these dishes. What are some sauces to avoid, and which ones are relatively “safe?” Or should I just accept the fact that when I eat out I’m in trouble?
Click for the answer. . . .“> Read More. . .

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July 29 In Eating
~ July

July 29 In Eating

Today in 1977, July 29 was proclaimed by the City Of Buffalo, New York as Chicken Wing Day. Buffalo is the logical home of the Buffalo chicken wing, but beyond that stories differ as to how hot wings were invented. Most of the stories credit the Anchor Bar’s owner Teressa Bellissimo with the creation. keep reading. . . .

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Dining Strategies For Her ;-)
~ Food Funnies

Dining Strategies For Her ;-)

How A Woman Gets What She Wants In A Restaurant, Chapter 2358.

First, she must know what she wants. Then she must communicate it in a forceful manner.

Click here for the cartoon.

keep reading. . . .

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Two Appetizers, Glass Of Wine, $20: Martin Wine Cellar
~ NOMenu.com

Two Appetizers, Glass Of Wine, $20: Martin Wine Cellar

Somewhere high on the list of Most Under-Appreciated restaurants around town is the deli at Martin Wine Cellar. Many–and perhaps most–of its customers think of it for first-class deli-style sandwiches, salads, and a handful of entrees. But the kitchen is adept and far-reaching. Come for dinner and you find a selection about as good as that of a gourmet bistro. During summer weekdays from 4-8 p.m., Martin offers a two-appetizer, glass-of-wine repast for $20. That is quite the lowest price I’ve seen for that combination, and opens up numerous possibilities for extending the meal. Read More. . .

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Diary 7|19, 20|2014: No Molé. Much Catfish.
~ July 2014

Diary 7|19, 20|2014: No Molé. Much Catfish.

We have plenty of thin- and thick-cut fried catfish, of course, along with their companions fried oysters and shrimp. I begin with barbecue oysters, a unique dish much older than Drago’s grilled oysters and totally different. They’re baked on the shells, with a ruddy brown, thick sauce none of whose ingredients play a solo. I don’t know what this stuff is, but I like it, and get it every time I. . . keep reading. . . .

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Where To Find Beef And Veal Stock Bones
~ Food FAQs

Where To Find Beef And Veal Stock Bones

I’m curious as to what kinds of bones are used for making beef and veal stocks, and where you go to buy them. I’ve seen recommendations for knuckle bones, for example, but I’ve never seen them for sale. Is this something that butchers give away for free? Click for the answer. . . .43182″> Read More. . .

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Martin’s On Upperline
~ NOMenu.com

Martin’s On Upperline

“The Galatoire’s of Uptown!” The first restaurant I ever heard called that was Martin’s. It had no connection with the illustrious French Quarter restaurant, but the encomium rang true. The kind of palate that loved Galatoire’s in those days would find a comfortable home at Martin’s. Its menu included the same range of Creole-French cookery, from shrimp remoulade and a half-dozen trout entrees to complicated chicken dishes and lamb chops, plus a scattering of veal liver, sweetbreads, and such like. All of it made for great eating. You didn’t have to be spurred along by. . . keep reading. . . .

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July 28 In Eating
~ July

July 28 In Eating

It’s National Milk Chocolate Day. Milk chocolate became popular in the United States when Milton Hershey rejected methods already perfected in Europe for blending milk into chocolate and devised his own. His technique–still a closely-guarded secret–caused the milk to sour a little, giving Hershey’s chocolate a distinctive taste that Europeans find unappetizing. But it’s so well established as the flavor for milk chocolate here that everybody imitates it, to one degree or another. Milk chocolate is in decline these days, however, as dark chocolate takes over more and more of the market because its alleged health benefits. . . . Read More. . .

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Fried Chicken
~ NOMenu.com

Fried Chicken

Confession: I never make fried chicken the same way twice. It’s a work in progress that’s been going on for over ten years. This recipe is an amalgamation of the ideas that resulted in the most delicious chicken–so far. Read More. . .

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Merguez @ Jamila’s
~ 500 Best Dishes

Merguez @ Jamila’s

Merguez is an herbal, spicy sausage made of veal or beef and lamb in Northern Africa. It’s a particular specialty of Tunisia and Morocco, from which Moncef and Jamila Sbaa came to New Orleans decades ago. The merguez they make in house is not only one of their restaurant’s greatest specialties, but also a very popular item at the Jazz Festival every year. They grill it, and that’s all it needs for deliciousness. Read More. . .

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Diary 7|18|2014: Testing For Reception At Le Foret.
~ July 2014

Diary 7|18|2014: Testing For Reception At Le Foret.

We start with some fried oysters topped with Louisiana caviar. Legacy note: Mary Ann and I had that caviar at our own wedding reception, when it was a new product on the market. General note: to keep oysters and other fried items from shifting on the plate, chefs are now dabbing a little thick sauce (white remoulade, for example) on the bottoms of the oysters. This is a brilliant insight. I wonder who thought of it.. . . keep reading. . . .

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Chopped Garlic In A Jar
~ Food FAQs

Chopped Garlic In A Jar

I often hear you deride callers to your radio show because they use chopped garlic from a jar. What’s wrong with it? I like not having to chop up garlic every time I want to use it. It saves a great deal of time and effort. The problem with most chopped garlic in jars is the garlic. While it may look like fresh chopped garlic (a suggestion furthered by the fact that the stuff is usually in the produce department of the store, sometimes even refrigerated), in fact it is…

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Fried Fish Tipitapa
~ NOMenu.com

Fried Fish Tipitapa

This dish is a whole fresh fish whose sauce is named for a small town in Nicaragua. It came from a great little place (no longer with us) named Tula’s. If you can’t get whole fish, fillets will work. Read More. . .

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Pistachio-Crusted Salmon With Balsamic Reduction @ Zea
~ 500 Best Dishes

Pistachio-Crusted Salmon With Balsamic Reduction @ Zea

Pistachio-Crusted Salmon With Balsamic Reduction @ Zea Although Zea is a mainstream restaurant, complete with the spinach-artichoke dip and hamburgers that marks it as such, it has a history of devising ambitious dishes that would seem more at home in an upscale, white-tablecloth place. This new dish is one of those. It’s a handsome slab of medium-rare Atlantic salmon, encrusted with whole pistachios and resting in a sauce of balsamic vinegar and aioli. The fish is propped up above the sauce on a latticework of grilled, crisp asparagus. Not only…

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July 25 In Eating
~ July

July 25 In Eating

This is International Antipasto Day. The word translates from the Italian as “before the repast,” and that’s just where you find it. Restaurants in Italy place it so far ahead of the main part of dinner that the antipasto is typically on a table just inside the front door. Here in New Orleans, most of us know antipasto as a plate of prosciutto, salami, cheeses, and olives, served ice-cold. Read More. . .

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Delmonico In Summer: 4 Courses, $45
~ NOMenu.com

Delmonico In Summer: 4 Courses, $45

All three of Emeril’s New Orleans restaurant have summer specials this year. The prices are the same at each–$45 for four courses–but the menus differ entirely. Also available is a wine-pairing option for this special menu for $25. Here’s the summer menu for Delmonico, the most traditional of the Emeril trio: Read More. . .

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Diary 7|16, 17|2014: 25th At R’Evolution. Mr. B’s. Yat Pack.
~ July 2014

Diary 7|16, 17|2014: 25th At R’Evolution. Mr. B’s. Yat Pack.

If in my waning years I get the chance to write a piece (or a large hunk) summing up my thoughts about the New Orleans restaurant scene, I will call Mr. B’s The Restaurant of My Life. Which is not the same thing as My Favorite Restaurant or The Best Restaurant in Town. But I was there at the birth of the place in 1979, and watched it and the many restaurants that it inspired completely change the nature of dining out in New Orleans. . . keep reading. . . .

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FAQ: Deconstruction
~ Food FAQs

FAQ: Deconstruction

Q. What does it mean when a dish is “deconstructed”? I saw a dish recently served with a deconstructed hollandaise sauce. Does that mean I will be served egg yolks and butter? Click for the answer. . . .“> Read More. . .

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Cafe Brulot @ Arnaud’s
~ 500 Best Dishes

Cafe Brulot @ Arnaud’s

Cafe brulot diabolique (“the burning coffee of the devil”) was made popular at and possibly even created by Antoine’s. However, every restaurant with even a touch of local culinary tradition serves it. It begins with aromatic spices, sugar, orange juice and oil from the orange peel, and brandy. The latter is set aflame. At Arnaud’s–which brings cafe brulot to the apex–the flames climb up the coiled skin of the orange, studded with cloves. It makes the whole dining room smell good. The coffee is poured in to douse the flames, and the resulting potion is served as a hot after-dinner drink. Read More. . .

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July 24 In Eating
~ July

July 24 In Eating

Today is the anniversary of the 1905 opening of Angelo Brocato’s ice cream parlor. Brocato began a career of making ice cream in his native Palermo when he was twelve. He emigrated to New Orleans in the early 1900s, and set about realizing a dream: to open his own gelateria as fine as the ones he remembered in Sicily. He did that with a classic parlor on Ursulines Street in the French Quarter in 1905. The original Angelo Brocato’s remained there until the 1980s, when it moved to North Carrollton Avenue just off Canal. By that time the business was in the third generation of the Brocato family, and had become the gold standard for its spumone, cannoli, cassata, lemon ice, cookies, and dozens of other confections. They were in the throes of celebrating their one hundredth anniversary when the storm came, flooded their parlor and factory deeply. Brocato’s came back, though, picking up right where it left off, to the great delight of ice cream lovers. Read More. . .

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The Ultimate In Food DIY ;-)
~ Food Funnies

The Ultimate In Food DIY ;-)

A Restaurant Where They Make EVerything From Scratch.

No matter how long you have to wait for it.

Click here for the cartoon.

keep reading. . . .

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Diary 7|23|2014: Maurepas, Munch, Mole, Marcello’s.
~ July 2014

Diary 7|23|2014: Maurepas, Munch, Mole, Marcello’s.

Marcello’s (pronounced the Italian way, “mar-CHELL-ohz”) is a new Italian restaurant in the space that had been Le Chat Noir, the marvelous cabaret that, unfortunately, closed down a year or two ago. It’s two doors up from Herbsaint, with another Italian restaurant (Cibugnu) in between. Mary Ann has been to Marcello’s a couple of times in the few months it’s been open, and is wild about the place. She likes. . . keep reading. . . .

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Splitting And Sharing Restaurant Checks
~ Food FAQs

Splitting And Sharing Restaurant Checks

My wife and frequently dine with two couples. In each one of them is a person who insists that the checks must be completely separate, so at the end of the meal we know exactly how much each couple or (in one case) person spent. “I want to keep our friendship,” says one of them, as if being forced to spend a few dollars more than the price of our meal will in any way diminish our camaraderie.

I’m not asking whether separate checks are proper or good. I know they are, and I know they’re not. I’m just wondering if you have a way to talk these skinflints out of their ungenerous ways without offending them. Click for the answer. . . .“> Read More. . .

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Pulled Barbecued Pork Shoulder
~ NOMenu.com

Pulled Barbecued Pork Shoulder

Pork shoulder is very tough if you try to cook it quickly, but responds with a wonderful texture and flavor if it’s smoked slowly. The expression “pulled” means that the meat is not sliced but torn from the bone. In the case of pork shoulder, it comes off in lovely long morsels, perfect for sandwiches and not at all bad for a platter. Tongs are the usual tool for pulling the meat from the bone, but you can sometimes do it with a fork. Read More. . .

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Guacamole @ Sun Ray Grill
~ 500 Best Dishes

Guacamole @ Sun Ray Grill

For awhile, the SunRay Grill would, on request, roll up a cart next to your table and make guacamole fresh, right in front of you. That is not merely an affectation. Avocados are notorious for losing their fresh flavors as soon as the skin and the seed are removed. Alas, Sun Ray doesn’t offer that service anymore. They do, however, make the guacamole several times a day with Hass avocados at the peak of ripeness. And it’s a good recipe, too. (Or else we wouldn’t be talking about it.) Read More. . .

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Early Mysteries ;-)
~ Food Funnies

Early Mysteries ;-)

Food And Religion.

They were intimately intertwined in the early civilizations. Some practices live on to the present day.

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keep reading. . . .

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