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Franklin
Marigny: 2600 Dauphine. 504-267-0640. Map.
Casual.
AE MC V
Website
BY BETH D'ADDONO
ANECDOTES AND ANALYSIS Most restaurants in the exceedingly fertile Marigny and Bywater neighborhoods have leaned heavily on the inventory of old, funky and industrial buildings in that district. Excepting only the French Quarter, this is the only major restaurant concentration that has a more or less uniform environmental style. The Franklin breaks out of that convincingly, and already has attracted many diners who previously might not have entered the area.
WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY Lost Love may be across the street, but it's hard to find a better date-night setting than The Franklin. It's an improbably drop-dead gorgeous, French-ish restaurant holding down the upriver corner of Dauphine at Franklin in the Marigny. The Franklin skips over the usual quirky downtown vibe in exchange for an elegant setting worthy of chef Zack Tippen’s refined, also French-inspired seasonal cuisine. The wine and cocktail lists are the work of Franklin Buist, formerly the sommelier at Atchafalaya. Here is a restaurant that lives in New Orleans, but could be at home in just about any big city. Expect a spendy but a very good evening of dining.
WHAT'S GOOD
The menu pairs the best seasonal local bounty with classic French technique, a winning combo that delivers swoon-worthy flavors. A thick seafood gumbo swirls with deep shellfish notes, while a large portion of mussels tastes downright restrained in a delicate fennel and white wine sauce. Most of the small plates are intriguing, raw and grilled oysters are always on the menu, and a perfect coq au vin was in perfect tune with the chilly weather. Desserts lean in the direction of savory flavors, too.
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Franklin and its neighborhood.[/caption]
BACKSTORY The 70-seat restaurant opened May 2 with chef/urban farmer Jim Bremer at the helm, which might be why a deep respect for seasonal produce runs through The Franklin’s menu. Tippen, who was Bremer’s sous chef, maintains that integrity with innovative vegetable and salad pairings like a recent arugula with satsumas, serrano ham and goat cheese. The face of the restaurant is partner and Marigny resident Jason Baas, familiar from past gigs at Atchafalaya, Bacchanal, and a decade managing Lilette. The main investors are Michael Wilkinson (who supplied the art on the walls) and developer Patrick Finney.
DINING ROOM
The glow of the backlit amber bar is almost as intoxicating as the Franklin’s version of the French 75 made with 10-year-old cognac, Rothman Orchard Peach and a rose sparkler. Design features include a quilted ivory leather ceiling, industrial light pendants at the bar as well as a few long communal high top tables. Rolled leather banquettes line one dining room, which is divided from the bar by vaguely Asian-looking open screening. A mesmerizing portrait of a woman’s face in water by artist Alyssa Monks dominates one room. The overall effect is intimate and inviting.
REVIEWER'S NOTEPAD
[title type="h6"]FULL ONLINE MENU[/title]
BEST DISHES
The menu changes often.
Raw Fish of the Day
Escargot Eclair
Blue Cheese Mousse and Persillade
»»Steak a la Mode
Foie gras ice cream
Steak and Strawberry Tartare
Quail egg, and balsamico
Mussels
White wine, capers, pommes frites, aioli
Arugula Salad
Satsumas, serrano ham, goat cheese
Fried Oysters, White Remoulade
Raw Oysters
Grilled Oysters
Garlic butter and parmigiano
Oyster Stew
Sauteed Black Drum
Asparagus and grapefruit-tarragon meuniere
Courtbouillon of Gulf Seafood
Mussels in crab broth
Sauteed Redfish, Lump Crabmeat
Brown rice leaf wrap and tomato cream
Seared Pork Loin
Brussels sprouts, bacon and blue cheese
Fried Chicken and Biscuits
Braised collard greens
Coq au Vin
Lardons and onion rings
Grilled Sweetbeads with Braised Oxtail
Pickled root vegetables
Bruleed Ginger-Studded Plantain
Spiced creme anglaise
Quince-Almond-Goat Cheese Tart
Honey ice cream
FOR BEST RESULTS
Inquire of and pay heed to the servers' ideas of what might wow you.
OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
The no-reservations bit is something we'd like to see dropped.
FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.
- Dining Environment +2
- Consistency +2
- Service+2
- Value +2
- Attitude +1
- Wine & Bar +2
- Hipness +2
- Local Color +3
SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES
- Romantic
- Open Sunday dinner
- Open Monday dinner
- Curbside parking within a block or two
- No reservations
