Diary 7|24|2015: My Best Dinner @ Cypress.

Written by Tom Fitzmorris July 31, 2015 12:01 in

[title type="h5"]DiningDiarySquare-150x150 Friday, July 24, 2015. Cypress.[/title] How does that quotation from Einstein (I think it was him) go? Something about how one is clearly crazy if he keeps proceeding with the same failed strategies over and over, hoping some day the result will change, though it never does? I keep finding myself trying to get into Vincent's at seven in the evening, and finding a full restaurant and a full parking lot every time. Tonight, not only was that true, but the walk from the nearest parking space to Austin's (across the street from Vincent's) was over three blocks. EinsteinBut I am not crazy! Not tonight, anyway. I go around the block and find open spaces at the fine, somewhat hidden, underexposed bistro called Cypress, on the other side of the block from Vincent's. I have not been to Stephen Huth's restaurant in a long time. He and his family have kept a low profile for a dozen years on Transcontinental, in an oddly-configured space that used to be his father's salon. It was an interesting evening. Its salient characteristic is that I had the best Cypress dinner ever to pass through my lips. It has always been good, but tonight the chef outdid himself. I don't think I've ever used that cliche phrase, but it perfectly captures the eating here tonight. I am recognized by a couple whose table is next to mine. I remember them from past Eat Club events, but none lately. They invite me to join them, which requires a move into another room. I am not in my most talkative mood, but a martini--the first I've had since the cruise--fixes that problem. The guy proves himself a very enthusiastic follower of my work. Very flattering. If that doesn't warm me up, I don't know what will. I join my hosts midway through their dinner, and their entrees are soon to appear. I order Cypress's signature garlic soup. It is better than I remember, with a clean, herbal taste and the ideal amount of cream. I follow that with a well-composed salad, and my friends launch into their mains. [caption id="attachment_48429" align="alignnone" width="480"]Veal ravioli Marsala @ Cypress. Veal ravioli Marsala @ Cypress.[/caption] Then comes a very good take on a classic. It's veal Marsala. Third time I've had that in the past ten days or so. The veal is tender, the sauce is its distinctive slightly-sweet, somehow nutty flavor. What makes it special (it is indeed one of the half-dozen specials this night) is that each slice of veal is topped with a large, apparently hand-made raviolo, filled with a modicum of cheese in its center and a nicely restrained spoonful of the creamy Marsala sauce over the top. Rather rich, but it works to fine effect, and I am very happy I ordered this. [caption id="attachment_48428" align="alignnone" width="480"]An interesting visual of a rich dessert, in a photo with a flaw. An interesting visual of a rich dessert, in a photo with a flaw.[/caption] The dessert I won't even attempt to describe. The picture replaces about 763 words. It's dominated by chocolate and reduced strawberries, and is very sweet. I apologize for leaving a tab of a Sweet 'n' Low packet on the table, thereby diminishing the art value of the photograph. But the NOMenu policy is to show the food as it's served, not gussied up by food and table styling. My friends somehow finagle the paying of the entire check without my knowing. I would have stopped them. I think there's something wrong with my not paying my fair share and then some. And I can't get used to the idea that my company at table has any particular value. But Mary Ann rolls her eyes when she hears me saying something like that. She's always right, so maybe she has something. [title type="h5"]FleurDeLis-4-SmallCypress. Metairie: 4426 Transcontinental. 504-885-6885. [/title]