Snails And Tails @ Nuvolari's
Nuvolari's menu was long dominated by Italian dishes. Now, even if you stretch the definition of Italian, those account for only about a third of the offerings. The result: significantly more interesting dining. However, a few dishes from old menus are so good that they're permanent fixtures. The dish now called "snails and tails" goes back to the beginning of the twenty-five-year-old restaurant. Chef Tim Eihausen brought escargots, crawfish, mushrooms, and and a winy demi-glace into one of the two or three most distinctive treatments of snails ever to thrill New Orleans diners. The dish is as good as ever--and, after having it a week or so ago, I'm tempted to say it's even better, with more pepper. It's a generous serving, too--two people could split it, especially if you get in there with the restaurant's ciabatta bread.
