Grilled Redfish With White Wine Herb Sauce @ DiMartino's
DiMartino's began in 1975 as a muffuletta specialist, in a fast-food way. Not a likely spot to find a consistently well-prepared fresh fish dish. But there it is, from a menu that has grown to the sophistication and goodness of a neighborhood Italian cafe, with pasta, veal, chicken, and seafood dishes along with the sandwiches. (Unfortunately, you still order at the counter, and a server brings it out.) The menu offers two kinds of grilled fish. The cheaper generic one is made with tilapia. (Boo, hiss.) The other one--six or seven dollars more--is fresh redfish. The fillet is cooked to order and sloshed with a buttery, herbal sauce. They serve this with roasted potatoes, but on request you can get pasta. It comes with a good, olive-studded salad.