Our annual survey of seafood in Southeast Louisiana this year counts down the 33 best seafood species enjoyed in our restaurants, seafood markets, and homes. For the full survey so far, click here. Or use the page up/page down tool at the bottom.
#13: Lemonfish
Lemonfish--also called cobia and ling--is a big Gulf fish much liked by both fishermen and cooks. It grows to about 100 pounds, and when you land a nice one it's cause for celebration. Not just because of the battle, but because of the prize. This is a great eating fish.
The fillets of even a moderate-size lemonfish can be as much as three or four feet long and four inches thick. It's an off-white color with an excellent, firm texture and big, easily-removed bones. The name is a reference to a citrusy taste that the fish is alleged to possess, although I can't say I've ever noticed this.
My peak experience with lemonfish involved a grill propped up on oak logs over a ground fire of pecan wood. It was built during a campout at a sugar plantation by a bunch of Cub Scouts. Seafood purveyor Harlon Pearce (he and I were both Scout dads) brought a large lemonfish fillet. We coated it with Creole seasoning and dropped on the grill for about twenty minutes. The outside was nearly blackened. When we cut into it and started passing it around, even people who had their doubts about such a big fish cooked that way were knocked off the stumps they were sitting on. It was the best grilled fish that's ever come my way.
Lemonfish is almost always cut into steaks, then grilled. Well it should be. It has all the qualities you want of a grilling fish: it's thick enough to encrust without overcooking, it lends itself to interesting seasoning levels, and its flavor is meaty. It also comes out very nice when broiled.
Recently, I've encountered lemonfish in sushi bars. It's great with ponzu, green onions, and a squirt of Sriracha hot sauce instead of the usual soy sauce and wasabi.
Not enough lemonfish is caught for it to be a regular menu item anywhere. But if you see it as a special or the catch of the day, get it. The eating is marvelous.
Grilled Lemonfish
- 1 large lemonfish fillet, about 6-8 oz. per person, up to about 10 lbs.
- 2 lemons, quartered
- Creole seafood seasoning
- Salt
1. Wash the fish fillet and make sure all the bones are out. Rub the fish all over with the cut lemons.
2. Cover the fish with a liberal coating of two parts Creole seasoning to one part salt. Put on as much as will stick to the fish. Let the fish sit with the seasoning in place while you prepare the grill.
3. Heat a charcoal or wood grill (or gas, if you must) until very hot, with the heat source about five inches from the grill surface.
4. Place the fish on the grill and grill for about four minutes. Turn and continue to grill, turning ever four minutes or so. The exterior will get very dark, but it will not burn. The fish is done when you poke a kitchen fork into the center and it comes out warm to the touch of your lips. This will take 20-30 minutes, depending on the size of the fillet.
5. After removing from the grill, let the fish sit on the cutting board for about three minutes before cutting serving-size portions across the fillet. To dress this up into something elegant, you can make a beurre blanc sauce, preferably with more lemon than usual.
