Last year, Arnaud’s Reveillon menu was the most improved among all the rivals. It moved from a very traditional assortment of dishes to an intriguing assortment of mostly-new dishes with a feeling of winter and of the holiday season. That fits right into the concept of the Reveillon. It’s not one of the most varied Reveillons, but it makes up for that with arestaurant full of the restaurant is rife with Christmas decorations, among the two or three grandest and most tasteful in town, with an emphasis on gold rather than red and green.

All that with the a very attractive price of $49 for the four courses.

Four courses, $49.

Daube glace, garlic crouton
Shrimp Ravigote
Gulf white shrimp, ravigote sauce and fried green tomatoes
Butter Lettuce Salad
Candied walnuts, bacon, watermelon radish, dill sugarcane vinaigrette
Creole Onion Soup En Croûte
Filé Gumbo
Louisiana Gulf Drum simmered in tomato purée, shrimp and oysters, Louisiana popcorn rice
Duck Á l’Orange
Roasted Root Vegetables
Seared Flank Steak
Rockefeller spinach, sauce Robert

White Chocolate Peppermint Mousse Cake
Sticky Toffee Pudding
Praline Mousse
French Quarter: 813 Bienville. 504-523-5433.
We’ll feature one every day throughout the Reveillon season, which runs in most of the Reveillon restaurants until December 31.The snowflake ratings are for the Reveillon menu, not the restaurant in general. Dishes marked with the snowflake symbol ✽ are my recommendations.


LeRuth’s Back Door Pecan Pie

Warren Leruth didn’t publish many of his recipes, and fewer still were for dishes he served at the restaurant. The pecan pie was one of the “back door” recipes in his Front Door, Back Door cookbook, a little collection he put out in the 1970s. Here it is:

A whole freshly home made pecan pie ready to eat

  • 3 eggs
  • 3/4 cup sugar
  • 1 tsp. vanilla
  • 1 cup white Karo syrup
  • 1/2 stick butter, melted
  • 1 cup pecans
  • 1 nine-inch unbaked pie shell

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

1. Mix eggs, sugar and syrup thoroughly. Then stir in melted butter and vanilla. Finally, stir in the pecans. Pour the mixture into the pie shell.

2. Bake at 350 degrees for 45 to 50 minutes. Cool for a half hour or more before serving.

Makes one pie.

AlmanacSquare December 8, 2017

Days Until

Christmas 17.
New Year’s Eve: 24.
Eat Club Gala @ Brennan’s: 5.

Our Great Chefs

Alon Shaya, the chef-partner of Domenica and the Israeli restaurant Shaya, was born today in 1978 in Israel. His family moved to Philadelphia, where he became interested in cooking. Almost all of his gigs were in Italian restaurants, including a lengthy spate in Italy in the months before John Besh opened Domenica in 2009. (The two have parted completely since then.) Alon has been the tastemaker at Domenica since the beginning, making his own extensive list of salumi and what I think are the best pizzas in town. One of his most interesting side projects has been serving special menus for the major Jewish holidays. They’re not kosher–too much prosciutto and pork sausage hanging around Domenica for that–but these dinners have been as delicious as they are engaging.

Looking Up

Starting today, the time of sunset will be a little later each day, after months of heading backwards on the clock. Sunset in New Orleans has been at 5:00 p.m. for the last ten days or so. Today the sun will set at 5:01. This happens even though the days will continue to shorten until December 21. We’ll gain ten minutes of afternoon light by Christmas. It’s the very first sign of summer.

Today’s Flavor

It’s National Brownie Day. I can’t figure out why so few people make brownies from scratch. It’s flour, sugar, cocoa, eggs, and milk. How complex is that? What do we need a mix for? Also, when you order a brownie in a first-class restaurant, doesn’t it seem a bit out of place to you? Regardless of the excellence of the brownie or the quality of the ice cream?

Gourmet Gazetteer

Brownie Creek is a usually dry creek in south west Nevada, two miles from the California state line. It’s about thirty-five miles due east as the crow flies from Yosemite National Park. When it carries water, Brownie Creek flows five miles from Sagehen Flat at 9445 feet down to the hauntingly lunar Queen Valley at 6400 feet. It picks up water from springs in the mountains, but not much. The nearest restaurant to the mouth of Brownie Creek is across the state line ten miles southwest on US 6 in Benton, CA.

Deft Dining Rule #645:

If a restaurant serves a brownie as one of its main dessert selections, it is almost a certainty that hamburgers are among its best-selling entrees.

The Old Kitchen Sage Sez:

Brownies are better the day after you bake them than they are that day. They’re much easier to slice, too.

Edible Dictionary

mousse truffee, [moose-true-fay], French, n.–A smooth, light, spreadable paté made of fowl livers (most often chicken, but often duck or goose) mixed with butter, black truffles, and brandy or sherry or both. A mousse truffee is usually covered with a thin aspic made with veal stock, and served with French bread. It’s most common use is at cocktail parties or as an appetizer. It is very easy to fill up on this stuff and the bread, because every bite insists on being followed by another.

Food Inventions

On this date in 1896, inventor J.T. White patented a new kind of lemon squeezer that strains juice and keeps it off your hands. I’d like one of those! . . . Count Chocula was registered as a trademark for a kid’s chocolate-flavored cereal today in 1970. The Count was a harmless cartoon of the infamous vampire.

Today is the birthday, in 1765, of Eli Whitney. His famous idea–the cotton gin–accelerated the development of the American South. While the cotton fibers were the value part of the cotton crop, the seeds that were extracted by the gin were a good source of cooking oil–or would be, after they figured out how to remove the objectionable smell from cottonseed oil. Wesson Oil is cottonseed oil. I’m still waiting for some distiller to come out with Cotton Gin for making very, very dry martinis.

Food On The Funny Pages

The man who is probably more responsible for the vast amount of spinach eaten in America was born today in 1894. Elzie C. Segar was a cartoonist who began a newspaper comic strip called Thimble Theatre in 1919. Its two main characters were hapless adventurers Castor Oyl and Ham Gravy. In 1929, a new character named Popeye appeared and soon took over the strip. He was a sailor with unaccountable strength, which he attributed to his lavish eating of spinach. That fantasy inspired kids all over the land (myself included) to eat as much spinach as possible.

Music To Drink By

Moonlight Cocktail, a major hit for the Glenn Miller Orchestra with Bob Eberle and the Modernaires on the vocals, was recorded today in 1941.

Food Namesakes

Actor Lee J. Cobb was born today in 1911. He played tough guys who probably would never be caught eating a Cobb salad instead of a steak. . . Baseballer Darryl Strawberry was indicted in 1991 for alleged tax evasion. . . James “Pigmeat” Jarrett, a Georgia blues pianist who played until his nineties, was born today in 1899. . . Richard A. Baker, a famous film makeup artist, was born today in 1950.

Words To Eat By

“Looks can be deceiving; it’s eating that’s believing.”–James Thurber, New Yorker magazine humor writer, born today in 1894. Here are two more of his lines about food and drink:

“The most dangerous food is wedding cake.”

Words To Drink By

“It’s a native domestic Burgundy without any breeding, but I think you’ll be amused by its presumption.”–James Thurber again, in a New Yorker cartoon.