Our annual survey of seafood in Southeast Louisiana this year counts down the 33 best seafood species enjoyed in our restaurants, seafood markets, and homes. For the full survey so far, click here. Or use the links at the bottom to move up and down the list.
#14: Maine Lobster
Lobsters do not live around New Orleans, which fact makes them less good than the ones you'd find in the Northeast or Canada. Even with efficient air shipping of live lobsters, the longer they're out of the sea the less delicious they get. The best locally come from sources that sell so many lobsters that they don't get a chance to go hungry. Tough lobsters spent too much time in that tank in the dining room.
Lobster is a delicacy. Its flavor is subtle, and sauces for it shouldn't be overpowering. They can, however, be rich, creamy, or buttery. Even the way a lobster is cooked should be uncomplicated. Bouled. Maybe grilled. Every now and then some bright boy will boil a lobster in crab boil, thereby ruining another lobster. In fact, the flavor of lobster may be too subtle. For me, the best lobster dish of all is not a boiled whole lobster, but lobster bisque, which concentrates the flavors.
Lobster brings its own atmosphere with it. Put one on the table and it's almost by definition a special meal. The only challenge is to get the shell off. It's not hard to learn, and so please, please don't do yourself the disservice of ordering a lobster with the shell removed. Unless you like a cold lobster.
Inferior alternatives. Although many species of crustacean bear the lobster name, true lobsters (genus Homarus) are the best. The clawless (almost headless, really) cold-water lobsters from Australia and South Africa, while usually more expensive than Maine lobsters, are never as good, no matter what the restaurant says. Those are, however, from the right genus. The spiny lobsters from the Caribbean don't have the same complexity of flavor. Or the big claws, either. We don't see those tropical lobsters much anymore in New Orleans. However, if you encounter them in the Caribbean, enjoy! Eat it where it lives, whatever it is, always.
Lobster Thermidor
Lobster Thermidor is an ancient dish that has gone completely out of vogue. The only restaurants that have it anymore are those that haven't changed their menus in forever--like Antoine's. But it's a good dish, if more than a little on the rich side. If you can get some really good mushrooms, use them. Chanterelles would be the ultimate.
- 2 lobsters, 2 pounds each (or so)
- 1 cup sliced exotic mushrooms
- 1 stick butter
- 1 cup green onions, chopped
- 2 Tbs. flour
- 1 1/2 cups whipping cream
- 1/2 tsp. salt
- 1/4 tsp. cayenne
- 1/2 tsp. tarragon
- 1/4 cup brandy
- 2 egg yolks, beaten
- 1/2 cup bread crumbs
- 1/2 cup
1. Boil the lobsters for 15 minutes in salted water. Drain, then cut in half with a sharp knife, inserting the point into the back and cutting first backwards then forwards (carefully!). Remove the meat from the tail and claw, and reserve the shell.
2. Chop the lobster meat into pieces about the size of the end of your finger. Chop the mushrooms slightly smaller.
3. In a heavy skillet, melt the butter and sautee the green onions. Stir in the flour thoroughly, and cook over low heat for about three minutes.
4. Add the brandy and let it boil for about two minutes. Add the cream, salt, and cayenne. Bring to a light boil, whisking to blend.
5. Beat egg yolks with 2 Tbs. water. Stir quickly into the sauce.
6. Add the mushrooms, agitating the pan to cover them completely with the sauce. When the mushrooms are soft, add the lobster and heat through.
7. Spoon the mixture into the lobster shell and top with bread crumbs. Run the filled shells under the broiler until the contents bubble and the bread crumbs brown.
Serves four.
