#18: Black Drum

Our annual survey of seafood in Southeast Louisiana this year counts down the 33 best seafood species that are enjoyed most in restaurants.

<h5><strong>#16: Black Drum</strong></h5>

Drum was once despised, almost to the point of being considered trash fish. Then wild-caught redfish was legally stolen from the commercial market by the recreational fishing cartel and disappeared from markets and restaurants. And suddenly we were eating quite a bit of drumfish. And, you know. . . it's not bad at all. Drum is a close relative of redfish and similar in many ways. The best drum are called puppy drum--small ones, two or three pounds. It works for most uses to which we put speckled trout (another relative). Drum is about the same white-with-a-tinge-of-gray color, with flakes of approximately the same size and texture as speckled trout. Drum grills up nicely--better than speckled trout does. It also is a very good fish for broiling. In fact, it's hard to think of a cooking method that makes puppy drum look or taste bad. Wait. I just thought of one. Don't eat it as sushi. (A parasite problem is possible.) Among the best dishes using drumfish variously known as "barbecue drumfish" and "drumfish on the half shell." The fish goes onto the grill with skin and scales facing the fire. The top is brushed with garlic and herb butter, and it's left there until done, without turning. The skin gets black and crisp, insulating the fillet from overcooking and lending a sort of steamed effect. Drum is the only fish of its kind that's still legally available to commercial fishermen in quantities that make fishing for it a viable proposition. It's caught on long trotlines that lend themselves to commercial fishing. The populations are stable and the resource is strong. And, best of all, it's pretty and delicious. Unacceptable alternative:Big drum. Fishermen often pull up drumfish thirty pounds or bigger. As is true for redfish, the bigger they get, the worse they are, with nasty bloodlines and a greater risk of parasitical worms.

Puppy Drum Caruso

This is a variation on the way they like to cook drumfish at Andrea's, especially this time of year. Eggplant, tomatoes, and fish together make a lovely combination.

• 4 puppy drum (or trout or red snapper) fillets, 8-10 oz. each
• Marinade:
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/4 cup dry white wine
• 1 Tbs. lemon juice
• 1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
• 3 dashes Tabasco
• Coating:
• 1 cup flour
• 1 Tbs. salt
• 1 tsp. black pepper
• 1/2 tsp. thyme
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• Sauce:
• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper
• 1 clove fresh garlic, peeled and crushed
• 1/3 medium eggplant, cut into small cubes
• 1 cup canned Italian plum tomatoes
• 1/3 cup juice from tomatoes
• 1/2 cup fish stock
• 6 chopped fresh basil leaves
• 1 sprig chopped fresh oregano leaves
• 1/4 tsp. salt
• Pinch white pepper

1. Wash the fish under cold water and pat dry. Mix the marinade ingredients and soak the fish in it for a minute on each side. 2. Dust the fish with the combined coating ingredients. 3. Heat the 1/4 cup olive oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Put two fish fillets into the pan and saute three to five minutes per side, until the exterior of the fish is crusty. Remove the fish and keep warm. 4. Pour off the oil, but don't clean the pan. Add and heat the extra virgin olive oil over medium heat. Saute crushed red pepper and garlic until fragrant. 5. Add the eggplant and saute until medium-dark brown on the outside--about five minutes over medium heat. Remove and drain on paper towels. 6. To the olive oil remaining in the pan, add the tomatoes, juice and fish stock. Bring to a boil, then add basil and oregano. Reduce heat and simmer the sauce until reduced by half--about five minutes. 7. Stir the eggplant into the sauce, then remove from heat. Divide sauce among four plates, and place a puppy drum fillet atop each. Serves four. [divider type=""]